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Hit : 12531 , Vote : 260 , Date : 2005/11/02 17:28:03 , (31850) ÀÚ |
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±â°è°øÀۺι®Àº Á¦°¡ Àß ¸ô¶ó¼ ¹ø¿ª¿¡ ¿À·ù°¡ ÀÖÀ» ¼ö ÀÖ½À´Ï´Ù. ¿À·ù¸¦ ¹ß°ßÇÏ½Ã¸é ´ä±Û ºÎŹµå¸³´Ï´Ù.
(º¯¸í)ºÒ¾î¸¦ ¿µ¾î·Î ÀÚµ¿¹ø¿ªÇÑ °ÍÀ¸·Î »ý°¢µÇ¸ç, ¸Á°¡Áø ¿µ¾î¹®ÀåÀÌ ¿©·¯°³ ÀÖ¾î¼ ¾Ö¸¦ ¸Ô¾ú½À´Ï´Ù.
Á¦ÀÛ¹æ¹ý »çÁøÀº Á¤¸®µÇ´Â´ë·Î http://cafe.daum.net/ornithopter¿¡ ¿Ã¸®°Ú½À´Ï´Ù.
CUI-CUI
Since the day when I held a small ornithopter with a rubber engine, I dream to have one of them but radio controlled of the same size. Thanks to progress of electronics and the considerable reduction in the weight of the battery, the dream becomes reality. Armed with the invaluable file on the flapping wing flight of Professor Poupette (pigeon female 12 year old), I could finally draw a plan. Supervised by this warned friend, it only remained me to undertake the construction of the machine. Let us discover together an original flying machine, which would have surely pleased in Leonard de Vinci and Alphonse Penaud, both visionaries and precursors in a still virgin field for us, human: flapping wing flight!
Jean-Claude Pesce is an exceptional model maker. Exceptional as the meetings of salt and meat or quite simply the life with the daily newspaper enables you to meet some, raftered model maker, inventive, impassioned achievements complex and eager to communicate their knowledge, it is with a smile and the meridian accent accomplices that Jean-Claude has very nicely agrees to divide with us, model makers, his ornithopter. The presentation of this project being particularly detailed in order to give each one of us a chance "to speak bird". You will find Jean-Claude this month and in January. For the impatient, the plan is inserted in this months edition. Join the World where fiction and reality collide. In short, made by us; you burst! P,W.
³»°¡ °í¹«ÁÙµ¿·Â ¿À³Ê»ðÅ͸¦ °®°Ô µÈ ÀÌÈÄ·Î ³ª´Â °°Àº Å©±âÀÇ RC ¿À³Ê»ðÅ͸¦ °®´Â ²ÞÀ» ²Ù¾ú´Ù. ÀüÀÚ°øÇÐÀÇ ¹ßÀü°ú ¹åµ¥¸®ÀÇ »ó´çÇÑ ¹«°Ô°¨¼Ò·Î ÀÎÇÏ¿©, ±× ²ÞÀº ºñ·Î¼ ½ÇÇöµÆ´Ù. Poupette±³¼öÀÇ ±ÍÁßÇÑ ºñµÑ±â(12¼¼ ¾Ï³ð) ³¯°³ÁþºñÇà¿¡ °üÇÑ ÆÄÀÏ·Î ¹«ÀåÇÏ°í, ³ª´Â ¸¶Ä§³» ¼³°èµµ¸¦ ±×¸± ¼ö ÀÖ¾ú´Ù. ¼³°èµµ´ë·Î ³ª´Â ±â°è¸¦ ¸¸µå´Â Àϸ¸ ÇÏ¸é µÇ¾ú´Ù. ºñÇà±â°è¿¡ ´ëÇÑ ¸ù»ó°¡ÀÌ¸ç ¼±±¸ÀÚÀÎ ·¹¿À³ª¸£µµ ´ÙºóÄ¡¿Í ¾ËÆþ¼Ò Æä³ë¸¦ ±â»Ú°Ô ÇÒ ºñÇà±â°è°¡ Àΰ£µ¿·Â³¯°³ÁþºñÇàÀ» ÇÒ ³¯À» ±â´Ù·Áº¸ÀÚ.
(Âü°í) ÇÁ¶û½ºÀÇ ¾ËÆù½º Æä³ë(Alphonse Penaud : 1850-1880)´Â 1871³â¿¡ ¿òÁ÷ÀÌ´Â Àå³°¨ ºñÇà±â ÇÁ¶ó³ëÆ÷(Planophore)¸¦ °³¹ßÇß´Ù. Ç×°ø»ç»ó ÃÖÃÊÀÇ °íÀ¯ÀÇ ¾ÈÁ¤¼ºÀ» °¡Áø µ¿·Â ¸ðÇü ºñÇà±â·Î¼ ±Ù´ë ºñÇà±âÀÇ Ç¥º»ÀÌ µÇ¾ú´Ù.
Jean-Claude Pesce´Â Ưº°ÇÑ ¸ðµ¨¸ÞÀÌÄ¿ÀÌ´Ù. (¿ªÀÚÁÖ : ÀÌÇÏ Pesce¿¡ ´ëÇÑ ¾ê±âÀ̹ǷΠ»ý·«)
Characteristics
Cui-Cui (named by friend, Christian Veyssiere because of its characteristic at the time of the flapping of the wings). It is an ornithopter of 51cm wing span and weighs 45 grams. It is controlled thanks to the direction and pitch controls on its tail in "V" shape. The throttle control varies the speed of the flapping of wings to modify the speed of the flight. The first true tests proceeded on the ground of the CAREB in Fare the Olive-trees. They highlighted its autonomy (more than 10 minutes) and its control comparable with that of a plane with 2 axes of beginners.
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ÄûÄû(³¯°³ÁþÀÇ Æ¯¼ºÀ» µû¼ Ä£±¸°¡ À̸§À» ºÙ¿´´Ù.)´Â 51¼¾Æ¼¹ÌÅÍÀÇ ³¯°³¿Í 45±×·¥ÀÇ ¹«°Ô¸¦ °¡Áø ¿À³Ê»ðÅÍÀÌ´Ù. VÀÚÇü ²¿¸®ÀÇ ¹æÇâ°ú °æ»ç¿¡ ÀÇÇؼ Á¶Á¤µÈ´Ù. ¾²·ÎƲ(¿ªÀÚÁÖ : ³»¿±â°üÀÇ Á¶ÀýÆÇ, ÀÚµ¿Â÷ÀÇ ¾×¼¿À» ¹âÀ¸¸é ¿¬·á°¡ ´õ µé¾î°¡´Â °Í, ¿©±â¼´Â ¼ÓµµÁ¶Á¤)ÄÜÆ®·ÑÀº ºñÇàÀÇ ¼Óµµ¸¦ Á¶Á¤ÇϱâÀ§ÇÑ ³¯°³Áþ¼Óµµ¸¦ º¯µ¿½ÃŲ´Ù. ù¹ø° ½ÇÁ¦ ½ÃÇèºñÇàÀº CAREBÀÇ ¶¥À§¿¡¼ ÁøÇàµÆ´Ù. ½ÃÇèºñÇàÀº 10ºÐÀÌ»ó °£°ÝÀ» µÎ°í µ¶¸³¼ºÀÌ À¯ÁöµÆ°í, CUICUIÀÇ Á¶Á¤Àº ÃʽÉÀÚÀÇ 2ä³Î ºñÇà±â¿¡ ºñ°ßÇÒ ¸¸Çß´Ù.
How does it work?
Cui-Cui is what one can do for simpler: no profile of variable wing nor of incidence. The flexibility of the covering provides these two functions. Indeed, under the action of the flapping, the wing takes the form of a propeller or one "sail" which creates a push forwards. The rudder maintains a positive force on the aerodynamics of the assembly, it results from it sufficiently from flapping pressure to support the machine. I advise with all those that are passionate by the theories on the flight of flapping wings to see the sites quoted in appendix.
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ÄûÄû´Â ´Ü¼øȸ¦ Ãß±¸Çß´Ù. : °¡º¯ÀûÀÎ ³¯°³ÀÇ Æ¯¼ºµµ ¾ø°í ¿µ°¢(çÊÊÇ,ÁÖÀÍ°ú µ¿Ã¼±âÁؼ±ÀÌ ÀÌ·ç´Â °¢µµ)µµ ¾ø´Ù. µ¤°³(Áï, ³¯°³)ÀÇ À¯¿¬¼ºÀÌ ÀÌ µÎ°¡Áö ±â´ÉÀ» Á¦°øÇÑ´Ù. Á¤¸»·Î ³¯°³ÁþÀ» ÇÏ´Ï±î ³¯°³´Â ÃßÁø·ÂÀ» ¹ß»ý½ÃÅ°´Â ÇÁ·ÎÆç·¯ ¶Ç´Â µÀÀÇ Çü´ë°¡ µÈ´Ù. ¹æÇâŸ(·¯´õ)´Â »õÀÇ °ø±â¿ªÇп¡ ±àÁ¤ÀûÀÎ ÈûÀ» À¯Áö½ÃÄÑÁÖ¸ç, ±×°ÍÀº ±â°è¸¦ ÁöÅÊÇÏ´Â ³¯°³Áþ¾Ð·ÂÀ¸·ÎºÎÅÍ ±âÀÎÇÑ´Ù. ³¯°³ÁþºñÇàÀÇ À̷п¡ ¸Å·áµÈ ¸ðµç»ç¶÷µé¿¡°Ô ºÎ·ÏÀ¸·Î ¾ð±ÞÇÑ »çÀÌÆ®¸¦ º¸±â¸¦ ±ÇÇÑ´Ù.
List material necessary
¡¤ Carbon 95g/ fabric m©÷
¡¤ 1 of each, Carbon Rod of 0.5, 1, 1.5 & 2mm dia.
¡¤ Carbon wick.
¡¤ Kevlar string (radius fishes)
¡¤ Tube brass of 1.6mm of diameter.
¡¤ Piano wire of 2mm.
¡¤ 1 Aluminum angle of 1mm thickness.
¡¤ Plywood of 3mm,
¡¤ Sheet of Balsa 1mm thick.
¡¤ 1 sheet of Litespan of your preferred color.
¡¤ 4 Ball bearings of 2mm width and internal dia.
¡¤ 2 socket ball joints M1.6.
¡¤ 2 socket ball joints without shoulder M2.
¡¤ Screws and bolts M1.6 x 20mm.
¡¤ Screws and bolts M 2 x 8mm.
¡¤ 1 bush with grub screw of shaft interior 1.5mm dia.(B3)
¡¤ Heat-shrinkable sleeve 2mm dia.
¡¤ 1 motor DC5-2-4. 10g 4ohm.
¡¤ 1 Speed controler, micro Komronik 10 or JMP 7.
¡¤ 2 serfs Westechnik 2.4g.
¡¤ 1 receiver JMP RX5.
¡¤ 2 batteries 150mA LiPo.
¡¤ 1 pinion 11 teeth, pitch 0 3.
¡¤ 1 mixed spar gear 52 and 14 teeth, pitch 0 3.
¡¤ 1 spar gear 80 teeth, pitch 0 3.
¡¤ Having a total reduction of 1/27.
<ÇÊ¿äÇÑ ÀÚÀ縮½ºÆ®>
l Ä«º»Ãµ 95g/m2
l 0.5, 1,1.5,2mmÁ÷°æÀÇ Ä«º»ºÀ °¢1°³
l Ä«º»½ÉÁö(carbon wick)
l ÄÉºí·¯(°µµ°¡ ³ôÀº ¾Æ¶ó¹Ìµå¼¶À¯, ¹æźº¹¿ë)¼±, ³¬½Ã¿ëÀÇ ±½±â(radius fishes)
l Á÷°æ 1.6mmÀÇ Æ©ºêº£¾î¸µ(Tube brass of 1.6mm of diameter)
l 2mm Á÷°æÀÇ ÇǾƳ뼱
l 1mm µÎ²²ÀÇ ¾Ë¹Ì´½¾Þ±Û(angle)1°³
l 3mmÀÇ Ç×°øÇÕÆÇ
l 1mmµÎ²²ÀÇ ¹ß»ç³ª¹«ÆÇ
l ÁÁ¾ÆÇÏ´Â »öÀ¸·Î Litespan(ÆÒ¸¶Å©·Î¸ÅƽÇʸ§) 1Àå
l 2mm ³ÐÀÌ¿Í ³»ºÎÁ÷°æÀ» °¡Áø 4°³ÀÇ º¼º£¾î¸µ
l ¼ÒÄÏ º¼ Á¶ÀÎÆ® M1.6À» 2°³( ball-joint=ball-and-socket joint, º¼¸ð¾çÀÇ Á¶ÀÎÆ®)
l ¾î±ú°¡ ¾ø´Â ¼ÒÄϺ¼ Á¶ÀÎÆ® M2À» 2°³
l M1.6 X 20mm º¼Æ®, ³ÓÆ®
l M2 X 8mm º¼Æ®, ³ÓÆ®
l 1 bush with grub screw of shaft interior 1.5mm dia.(B3) »þÇÁÆ® ³»ºÎÁ÷°æ 1.5¹Ì¸®ÀÇ ±×·¯ºê ³ª»ç¸¦ °¡Áø Ãà¹ÞÀÌÅë1°³(ÇÑÂÊ ³¡¿¡ µå¶óÀ̹ö ȨÀÌ ÀÖ´Â ´ë°¡¸® ¾ø´Â ³ª»ç).
l 2mmÁ÷°æÀÇ ¿¼öÃཽ¸®ºê(sleeve, ±ä Ãà µûÀ§¸¦ ³¢¿ì´Â °ü¸ð¾çÀÇ ¼èºÙÀÌ)
l 11Åé´Ï¹ÙÄûÀÇ ÇǴϾð±â¾î 1°³, ÇÇÄ¡ 0 3(ÇÇÄ¡=³ª»ç°¡ 1ȸÀüÀ¸·Î Ãà¹æÇâÀ¸·Î ³ª°¡´Â °Å¸®)
l 52¿Í 14Åé´Ï¹ÙÄûÀÇ È¥ÇÕÀÍÇü±â¾î 1°³ ÇÇÄ¡ 0 3
l 80Åé´ÏÀÇ ÀÍÇü±â¾î 1°³ ÇÇÄ¡ 0 3
l Á¾ÇÕÀûÀ¸·Î ±â¾îºñÀ²ÀÌ 1:27ÀÌ µÇ°Ô ÇÔ
Gears
Most difficult to find are the pinions and spar gears of the gearbox. I got them in an old tape recorder and servos. You should not be discourage. The important thing is to obtain a gear ratio of 1/27. One can go up to 1/30, but do not go less than 1/27 under penalty of deteriorating to the gear and the battery. If you decide to build Cui-Cui it may be necessary for you to change dimensions of the gearbox. At its hold of construction, perhaps the recovered gears are not corresponding exactly to the dimensions of those installed in my model. You will not give up because of two unhappy pieces of plastic!
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±¸Çϱ⠾ÆÁÖ ¾î·Á¿ü´ø °ÍÀÌ ±â¾î¹Ú½ºÀÇ ÇǴϾð±â¾î¿Í ÀÍÇü±â¾îÀÌ´Ù. ³ª´Â ±×°ÍÀ» ¿À·¡µÈ Å×ÀÌÇÁ·¹ÄÚ´õ¿Í ¼º¸¿¡¼ ã¾Æ³Â´Ù. ´ç½ÅÀº ³«´ãÇÒ ÇÊ¿ä°¡ ¾ø´Ù. Áß¿äÇÑ °ÍÀº ±â¾îºñÀ² 1:27À» ¾ò´Â °ÍÀÌ´Ù. 1:30±îÁö´Â ¿Ã¶ó°¡µµ ÁÁÀ¸³ª 1:27¹ØÀ¸·Î ³»·Á°¡´Â °ÍÀº ±â¾î¿Í ¸ðÅ͸¦ ¼Õ»ó½ÃÅ°°Ô µÈ´Ù. ´ç½ÅÀÌ ÄûÄû¸¦ ¸¸µé °á½ÉÀ» »ü´Ù¸é, ±â¾î¹Ú½ºÀÇ Ä¡¼ö¸¦ º¯°æÇÒ ÇÊ¿ä°¡ ÀÖÀ» °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ±â¾î¹Ú½ºÀÇ ¹Ú½º¾È¿¡ ÀÖ´Â ±â¾îµéÀÌ ³ªÀÇ ¸ðµ¨ÀÇ ±â¾îµéÀÇ Ä¡¼ö¿Í ²À°°Áö ¾ÊÀ»Áöµµ ¸ð¸£±â ¶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù. Çöó½ºÆ½ Á¶°¢µé ¶§¹®¿¡ ´ç½ÅÀÌ Æ÷±âÇÏÁö´Â ¾ÊÀ¸¸®¶ó°í º»´Ù.
Before starting
Tack a bag from your favorite supermarket found in the area of the fruit and vegetables section. Cut out a piece of polyethylene. It has the aspect of tracing paper and which is very good and interesting for us but neither the adhesive or the resin adheres to it. Prepare a several sheets. I also advise you of a small accessory which I used for a couple of the years: an Aluminum section found in most do-it-yourself shops in the shape of an angle, punt of dimensioned, grooved of different (photo 3). It will be very useful for you to carry out certain assemblies requiring a perfect squaring.
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´ç½ÅÀÌ »ç´Â Áö¿ªÀÇ ´ëÇü¸¶Æ® û°ú¹°Äڳʿ¡¼ °¡Á®¿Â Æ÷¸®¿¡Æ¿·» ºÀÅõ¸¦ ¾ÐÁ¤À¸·Î °íÁ¤ÇÑ´Ù. Æ÷¸®¿¡Æ¿·» Á¶°¢À» À߶󳽴Ù. ±×°ÍÀº Á¾ÀÌ¿¡ ´Þ¶óºÙÁö¸¸ Á¢ÂøÁ¦³ª ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö(·¹Áø, resin)°¡ ´Þ¶óºÙÁö ¾Ê´Â´Ù. ¿©·¯ÀåÀ» ÁغñÇ϶ó. ¶Ç ÇÑ°¡Áö ³»°¡ ¸î ³â°£ ½á¿Â ÀÛÀº ¾Ç¼¼¼¸®¸¦ ÁغñÇÒ °ÍÀ» ±ÇÇÑ´Ù. : DO-IT-YOURSELF»óÁ¡¿¡¼ º¼ ¼ö ÀÖ´Â ¾Ë¹Ì´½ Á¶°¢Àε¥ ȨÀÌ ÀÖ´Ù. (»çÁø3).
Preparation of the carbon plate
The first task consists in carrying out a carbon plate of 12cm on side for the chassis of the gear, cranks and other small parts. On a sheet of polyethylene, lay out 6 pieces of carbon fabric of 12cm©÷, ones on top of the others (photo 4). Apply ample resin with a brush so that the resin seeps through the layers of fabric (photo 5). Cover it with another polyethylene sheet then, using a rolling pin to penetrate the resin in to the fibers (photo 6).
Remove the top sheet of polyethylene off the plate. Provide with the same rolling pin and absorbing paper, "squeeze" exceeding resin out (photo 7).
Do not hesitate to turn over the plate and to start again the operation several times. You will obtain a rigid and light plate. Remove carbon plate from the surplus resin, take two "clean" polyethylene sheets which you will apply on each sides of the carbon plate. You will place them together between two glass plates (pane or mirror of recovery) (photo 8). The part is fixed with a G-clamps until complete drying (photo 9). You will obtain a smooth carbon plate, flat, light and rigid.
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ù¹ø° ÀÛ¾÷Àº 12cmÀÇ Ä«º»ÆÇÀ» ¸¸µå´Â °ÍÀÌ´Ù. Ä«º»ÆÇ¿¡´Â ±â¾î, Å©·©Å©, ±âŸ ÀÛÀº ºÎÇ°µîÀÇ »õ½Ã(°¢ºÎÇ°À» °íÁ¤½ÃÅ°´Â ´ë)°¡ ¿Ã¶ó°£´Ù. Æú¸®¿¡Æ¿·» ½ÃÆ®À§¿¡ 12¼¾Æ¼¹ÌÅÍÀÇ Ä«º»Ãµ 6Á¶°¢À» Â÷°îÂ÷°î ½×´Â´Ù.(»çÁø4)
ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö(resin)À» º×À¸·Î ÃæºÐÈ÷ Àû¼ÅÁÖ¾î ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö°¡ Ä«º»ÃµÀÇ Ãþ»çÀÌ·Î Èí¼öÇÏ°Ô ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø5).
´Ù¸¥ Æú¸®¿¡Æ¿·» ½ÃÆ®·Î ±×°ÍÀ» µ¤°í ¹Ð´ë(·Ñ¸µÇÉ, rolling pin, ¿ªÀÚÁÖ: ¼ÕÄ®±¹¼ö ¸¸µé ¶§ ¹Ð°¡·ç¹ÝÁ× ¹Ì´Â °Íó·³ »ý±ä °Í)À» »ç¿ëÇÏ¿© õ ¾ÈÀ¸·Î ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö°¡ ħÅõÇÏ°Ô ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø6)
¸ÇÀ§ÀÇ Æ÷¸®¿¡Æ¿·» ½ÃÆ®¸¦ Á¦°ÅÇÑ´Ù. °°Àº ¹Ð´ë¿Í Èí¼öÁö(absorbing paper)·Î ¿©ºÐÀÇ ÇÕ»ó¼öÁö¸¦ ¡°Â¥³½´Ù¡±(»çÁø7).
ÆÇÀ» µÚÁý´Â °ÍÀ» ÁÖÀúÇÏÁö ¸»°í ¿©·¯ ¹ø ¹Ýº¹ÇÑ´Ù. ´ç½ÅÀº ´Ü´ÜÇÏ°í °¡º¿î Ä«º»ÆÇÀ» ¾òÀº °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ¿©ºÐÀÇ ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö·ÎºÎÅÍ Ä«º»ÆÇÀ» ¶¼¾î³»°í Ä«º»ÆÇÀÇ ¾ç¸é¿¡ ±ú²ýÇÑ Æú¸®¿¡Æ¼·» ½ÃÆ®¸¦ ºÙÀδÙ. ´ç½ÅÀº ±×°ÍµéÀ» 2ÀåÀÇ À¯¸®ÆÇ(À¯¸®Ã¢¿¡¼ Àß¶ó³½ °Í ¶Ç´Â °Å¿ï¿¡¼ Àß¶ó³½ °Í) »çÀÌ¿¡ ³õ´Â´Ù.(»çÁø8).
¿ÏÀüÈ÷ ¸¶¸¦ ¶§±îÁö 2°³ÀÇ Áý°Ô(G-clamp, ¾àÀÚÁÖ : Àμâ¼Ò µî¿¡¼ »ç¿ëÇÏ´Â ÀÛ¾÷´ë¸¦ °¡·ÎÁú·¯ °íÁ¤ÇÏ´Â Áý°Ô)·Î °íÁ¤ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø9)
´ç½ÅÀº ´Ü´ÜÇÏ°í °¡º¿ï »Ó¾Æ´Ï¶ó ¸Å²ô·¯¿î Ä«º»ÆÇÀ» ¾òÀ» °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
Two tubes...
The following operation is the manufacture of two tubes in carbon wick, which will be useful to us for constructing the cranks and the assembly of the spar gear on the axis of the shaft on the gear.
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´ÙÀ½ÀÛ¾÷Àº Ä«º»½ÉÁö(wick)·Î 2°³ÀÇ Æ©ºê¸¦ ¸¸µå´Â °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ±×°ÍÀº Å©·©Å©¿Í ±â¾îÀÇ »þÇÁÆ®ÀÇ Ãà¿¡ ÀÖ´Â ÀÍÇü±â¾îÀÇ ¾î¼Àºê¸®¸¦ ¸¸µå´Âµ¥ »ç¿ëµÈ´Ù.
1st Tube
To manufacture this tubes 30mm X 8mm, we in the same way to roll up resin impregnated carbon wick on to a piano wire of 2mm, which we would roll up of the wire on a reel.
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30mmX8mmÆ©ºê¸¦ ¸¸µé±â À§Çؼ 2mmÁ÷°æÀÇ ÇǾƳ뼱À§¿¡ ¾ñÀº ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö¸¦ ¸Ó±ÝÀº Ä«º»½ÉÀ» ±¼¸®´Âµ¥, ¿ì¸®´Â ¾ó·¹À§ÀÇ ÇǾƳ뼱À» ±¼¸± °ÍÀÌ´Ù..
Start by manufacturing the two sides of the "reel" using two retaining rings of wheel on which you will stick a disc of 15mm of diameter cut out in plastic of an old credit card. To then take piece of piano wire of 2mm over a length of approximately 10cm and assemble it on a chuck of drilling machine or a lath.
¸ø¾²´Â ½Å¿ëÄ«µå¿¡¼ Àß¶ó³½ 15¹Ì¸®Á÷°æÀÇ ¿øÆÇÀ» ºÙ¿©¼ ¾ó·¹¸¦ ¸¸µå´Â °ÍÀ¸·Î ½ÃÀÛÇÑ´Ù. ±× ´ÙÀ½ 2¹Ì¸® 10¼¾Æ¼ÀÇ ÇǾƳ뼱À» Àâ°í ¼±¹ÝÀÇ Ã´(°øÀÛ¹°À» °¡°øÇÒ ¶§ °øÀÛ¹°À̳ª °ø±¸¸¦ °íÁ¤½ÃÅ°´Â ÀåÄ¡) À§¿¡ °áÇÕ½ÃŲ´Ù.
Insert the first side and tighten it on the piano wire. Cut out in a polyethylene sheet a piece of 3cm X 1cm which will be useful of un-molding. Roll it up on the piano wire. To make it adhere, you can moisten this one slightly (photo 10).
ù¹ø° ¿øÆÇÀ» »ðÀÔÇÏ°í ÇǾƳ뼱À§¿¡ °íÁ¤½ÃŲ´Ù. Æú¸®¿¡Æ¿·» ½ÃÆ®¸¦ 3¼¾Æ¼X1¼¾Æ¼·Î À߶󳽴Ù. ±×°ÍÀº un-moldingÀ¸·Î »ç¿ëµÈ´Ù. ÇǾƳ뼱À§¿¡¼ ±¼¸°´Ù. Á¢Âø¼ºÀÌ ÀÖ°Ô ÇϱâÀ§Çؼ ¾à°£ ¹°±â¸¦ Àû½Ç¼ö ÀÖ´Ù.(»çÁø10)
Insert then the second side into 3cm of the first and tighten it. Impregnate possibly the sides with un-molding. Your finished reel. It does not remain any more which the wick of carbon around the piano wire and the resin impregnate has to roll up progressively while turning the chuck manually (photo 11).
±×´ÙÀ½ µÎ¹ø° ¿øÆÇÀ» ù¹ø°¿¡¼ 3¼¾Æ¼°Å¸®±îÁö Âñ·¯³Ö´Â´Ù. Un-molding°ú ÇÔ²² µÎ ¿øÆÇÀÌ ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö·Î Á¥°Ô ÇÑ´Ù. ¾ó·¹¸¦ ³¡³Â´Ù. ôÀ» ¼ÕÀ¸·Î µ¹¸®´Â µ¿¾È ÇǾƳ뼱¿¡ µÑ·¯Á® ÀÖ´Â Ä«º»½ÉÀ» ±¼¸®´Â ÀÏÀ̳ª ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö¸¦ Àû½Ã´Â ÀÏÀº ´õ ÀÌ»ó ³²¾ÆÀÖÁö ¾Ê´Ù.
No problem in clamping the drilling machine on its side to be used likes a lath to help carry out the rolling up of the wick. This is only as supports in order to have a free hand to apply resin while the other holds the wick.
Ä«º»½ÉÀ» ±¼¸®±â À§Çؼ ¼±¹ÝÀÇ Ãø¸éÀ» ²©¼è·Î °íÁ¤½ÃÅ°´Â °ÍÀº ¹®Á¦°¡ ¾ø´Ù. ÀÌ°ÍÀº ´ÜÁö Ä«º»½ÉÀ» ÇѼտ¡ µé°í ³ª¸ÓÁö ¼ÕÀ» ÀÚÀ¯·Ó°Ô ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ°Ô Áö¿øÇÑ´Ù.
Rolling up must be even, without gaps, if not the final aspect will be a disaster. In the same way that we made the plate, must apply liberally coated resin and it will be necessary "to squeeze" excess out. The diameter of the tube will be of approximately 8mm. We will adjust later by sand papering when it is dry.
±¼¸®±â´Â ²ÙÁØÇؾßÇϸç, ²÷±èÀÌ ÀÖÀ¸¸é ¾ÈµÇ´Âµ¥, ¾È±×·¯¸é ¸ÁÃĹö¸± ¼ö°¡ ÀÖ´Ù. ÆÇÀ» ¸¸µé ¶§¿Í ¸¶Âù°¡Áö·Î À׿©ÀÇ ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö°¡ ÀÖÀ» ¼ö ÀÖ°í ¿ì¸®´Â ¡°Â¥³»¾ß¡±ÇÑ´Ù. Æ©ºêÀÇ Á÷°æÀº ´ë·« 8¹Ì¸®ÀÌ´Ù. ¿ì¸®´Â ±×°ÍÀÌ ¸»¶úÀ» ¶§ »çÆ÷·Î Á¶Á¤ÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
2nd Tube
The same procedure used for the first, except that rolling up will be done on a drill of 5mm. Dimensions of the tube are of 10mm thick and 10mm of diameter. The sides will be set with a credit card and spaced 10mm. They must have a tight fit on the drill and possibly apply adhesives temporarily to the cyano.
<µÎ¹ø°Ʃºê>
ù¹ø°Ʃºê¿¡ »ç¿ëµÆ´ø ÀýÂ÷ Áß ±¼¸®±â°¡ 5¹Ì¸®µå¸± À§¿¡¼ ÇàÇØÁø´Ù´Â °Í ¿Ü¿¡´Â ¶È°°´Ù. Æ©ºêÀÇ Ä¡¼ö´Â 10¹Ì¸® µÎ²²¿Í 10¹Ì¸® Á÷°æÀÌ´Ù. Ãø¸éÀº ½Å¿ëÄ«µå¿Í ÇÔ²² ³õÀÌ°í 10¹Ì¸® °£°ÝÀ» ¶ç¿ï °ÍÀÌ´Ù. µå¸±¿¡ ²ËÂ÷¾ßÇÏ°í ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î Àӽ÷ΠºÙ¿©Áú °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
Construction of the gearbox.
±â¾î¹Ú½º Á¶¸³Çϱâ
Manufacture of the rings B1 and B2.
Our two dry tubes, we will work them to good dimensions using a lath of a drilling machine as mentioned above, carefully to be used like a lath. Provide you with a hold to sandpaper, of abrasive paper: adjust the dimension of the first tube to 7mm in diameter and that of the second with 9mm (photo 12). This finishes the operation, withdraw the piano wire and the drill of 5mm, become unnecessary, to preserve only the carbon tubes.
<B1°ú B2¸µÀÇ Á¦Á¶>
¿ì¸®´Â À§¿¡¼ ¾ð±ÞÇÑ ¹Ù¿Í °°ÀÌ µå¸±À» ¼±¹ÝÀ¸·Î »ç¿ëÇÏ¿© ¸¶¸¥ Æ©ºê 2°³¸¦ Á¤È®ÇÑ Ä¡¼ö°¡ µÇµµ·Ï ÀÛ¾÷ÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù. »çÆ÷·Î ù¹ø° Æ©ºêÀÇ ¼öÄ¡¸¦ 7¹Ì¸®Á÷°æÀÌ µÇ°Ô ¹®Áö¸£°í µÎ¹ø° Æ©ºê¸¦ 9¹Ì¸® Á÷°æÀÌ µÇ°Ô ¹®Áú·¯¶ó(»çÁø12). ÀÌ°ÍÀº ÀÛ¾÷À» ³¡¸¶Ä¡°ÔÇÑ´Ù. ÇǾƳ뼱°ú 5¹Ì¸® µå¸±À» ö¼öÇÑ´Ù. Ä«º»Æ©ºê¸¦ º¸È£Çϱâ À§ÇÑ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
First cut the first tube to obtain the two parts which will be used to actuate the cranks. Their final dimensions are: diameter 7mm, thickness 5mm (we will call these B1 parts). Even work on the second tube to release the part which will involve the drive spur gear (we will call this B2 part). Final dimensions: diameter 9mm, thickness 3mm. Do not forget to carefully sandpaper the faces of these parts: joining will be only better. It will now be necessary to drill the B1 parts right through with a drill of 0.7mm to insert a pin later. The B2 part will be drilled only through one side of the ring with dimensions of 2 mm. Here is a sample of your rings (photo 13).
¸ÕÀú Å©·©Å©¸¦ ÀÛµ¿½Ãų ºÎÇ°À¸·Î ¾²ÀÏ Ã¹¹ø° Æ©ºê¸¦ ÀÚ¸¥´Ù. ÃÖÁ¾Ä¡¼ö´Â 7¹Ì¸®Á÷°æ, 5¹Ì¸®µÎ²²ÀÌ´Ù.(¿ì¸®´Â ÀÌ°ÍÀ» B1À̶ó°í ºÎ¸¦ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.) µÎ¹ø° Æ©ºê¿¡ ´ëÇÑ ÀÛ¾÷Àº ÀÍÇü±â¾î¸¦ µ¹¸®´Â ºÎÇ°À» À߶󳻴 °ÍÀÌ´Ù. (¿ì¸®´Â ÀÌ°ÍÀ» B2¶ó°í ºÎ¸¦ °ÍÀÌ´Ù). ÃÖÁ¾Ä¡¼ö´Â 9¹Ì¸®Á÷°æ, 3¹Ì¸®µÎ²²ÀÌ´Ù. ÀÌ ºÎÇ°µéÀ» »çÆ÷·Î Àß ¹®Áö¸¥´Ù. ±×·¡¾ß °áÇÕÀÌ ÀߵȴÙ. ÀÌÁ¦ ÇÉÀ» ³ªÁß¿¡ »ðÀÔÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ°Ô B1ºÎÇ°À» 0.7¹Ì¸®ÀÇ µå¸±·Î Á¤È®ÇÏ°Ô ¶Õ´Â´Ù. B2ºÎÇ°Àº 2¹Ì¸®Ä¡¼öÀÇ °í¸®¸¦ ÅëÇÏ¿© ¶ÕÀ» »ÓÀÌ´Ù. °í¸®ÀÇ »ùÇÃÀÌ ¿©±â¿¡ ÀÖ´Ù. (»çÁø13)
Store them in a safe place. It would be a shame to lose them.
... Principal axis A1¡¦
±×°ÍµéÀ» ¾ÈÀüÇÑ Àå¼Ò¿¡ º¸°üÇ϶ó. ÀÒ¾î¹ö¸®¸é âÇÇÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
Is made out of piano wire of 2mm of diameter. Its length is 25mm. Using a disc to cut 0,6mm thickness, make a slit of 4mm length at the two ends of the axis (photo 14).
Áß¿äÃà A1Àº 2¹Ì¸®Á÷°æÀÇ ÇǾƳ뼱À¸·Î ¸¸µé¾îÁø´Ù. ±æÀÌ´Â 25¹Ì¸®ÀÌ´Ù. 0.6¹Ì¸® µÎ²²·Î ÀÚ¸£±â À§ÇØ ¿øÆÇÀ» »ç¿ëÇÏ¿© 4¹Ì¸® ±æÀÌÀÇ µÎÃàÀÇ ³¡¿¡ Æ´À» ¸¸µç´Ù.(»çÁø14)
The flat part having to be used to secure the bush of B3 from slipping will be achieved by means of a file or a cutting disc. Its position will be given according to your gears (photo 15).
B2ÀÇ Ãà¹ÞÀÌ°¡ ¹Ì²ô·¯Áö´Â °ÍÀ» ¹æÁöÇϱâ À§ÇÑ ¸ñÀûÀ¸·Î »ç¿ëµÇ´Â ÆòÆòÇÑ ºÎºÐÀº ÁÙÄ® ¶Ç´Â ¿øÆÇ Àý´ÜÀ¸·Î ¾ò¾îÁú ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù. ±× À§Ä¡´Â ´ç½ÅÀÇ ±â¾î¿¡ µû¶ó¼ Á¤ÇØÁú °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø15)
Increase the hole of the bush of B3 stop to 2mm. Why not take a bush of 2mm directly? Quite simply because its dimensions were not appropriate for my assembly! Position B3 on the axis with the site of the flat part. Tighten the screw and solder it with soldering tin (photo 16).
BÀÇ Ãà¹ÞÀÌÀÇ ±¸¸ÛÀ» 2¹Ì¸®±îÁö Å°¿î´Ù. 2¹Ì¸®Ãà¹ÞÀ̸¦ ¿Ö Á÷Á¢ ¾È ¸¸µå´À³Ä°í? ¿Ö³ÄÇϸé Ä¡¼ö°¡ ³» Á¶¸³Ç°¿¡(¾î¼Àºê¸®)¿¡ Àû´çÇÏÁö¾Ê¾Ò±â ¶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù! B3¸¦ ÆòÆòÇÑ ºÎºÐÀÇ ÃàÀ§¿¡ À§Ä¡½ÃŲ´Ù. ³ª»ç¸¦ ²ËÁ¶ÀÌ°í ÁÖ¼®À¸·Î ¶«ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø16)
IF the soldering takes badly, use scouring paste. Loosen the screw and remove it: you do not need any more. In driving out and stick at epoxy B2 piece-rates on the B3 bush. Adjust the holes so that they fall opposite. Insert a screw of 2mm X 15mm in these two parts and tighten it. Divide the part of the screw, which protrudes (photo 17). Put a drop of cyano in the hole it will soldieries this unit. In the carbon plate, cut out a disc of approximately 12mm of diameter (according to the spar gear) and drill its center with a 2mm drill: it will be the B4 part. Slip the disc on the axis A1 and glue it on the B2 unit, B3 (photo 18). The axis is ready to receive the spar gear, which will be glued with epoxy on the carbon disc. Check the good alignment of the parts: the crown must turn without buckling, or de-centring. IF it is not the case, start again or correct the defect because it goes from hare on for the correct operation of the machine. The sides F1 & F2 In the plate carried out previously, cut out with the scissors two rectangles of 52mm X 15mm (photo 19). They will constitute the sides of the gearbox (named F1 & F2). Take care that their dimensions are identical and held together as one plate, one on the other with adhesive tape to carry out similar drillings on the two sides. From there, do not disassemble the two parts as long as drilling is not be finished. Start by drilling F1 and F2 in the four corners with a drill of 1,6mm (photo 20) and screw temporarily the two sides together, withdraw the adhesive tape, which will obstruct for the continuation. You to now carry out the opening which will receive the bearings of the axis to exit. Start by making a before-hole with 17mm edge then increase it with a file (photo 21) so that the ball bearing returns while forcing slightly. You do not press: it is necessary to act with precision. The most difficult part is to position the second bearing most precisely possible in order to have a correct tooth space. For that, it is initially necessary to set up the axis A1 and its C1 crown then to position the other spar gear C2. It will be enough then to using a point, to mark the site of where the hole has to drilled (photo 22). To increase the hole like previously by controlling the evolution of this one permanently. Check that the tooth space is good while mounting the spur gearing to white. If your work is correct you can disassemble the two sides. It is now necessary to drill on the F1 side the lights in the bean shape (see plane) which will make it possible to screw and to regulate the position of the motor. On the other side (F2), do not forget to drill the 3 holes of 3mm, which will make it possible to screw the motor and to control the tooth space between the pinion-motor and the spar gear (photo 23). Finished sides, we will tackle the frame next.
¶«ÁúÀÌ Àß ¾ÈµÇ¸é Á¤·ÃÁ¦(scouring paste)¸¦ »ç¿ëÇ϶ó. ³ª»ç¸¦ Çæ°Ì°ÔÇÏ°í Á¦°ÅÇÑ´Ù. ´õ ÀÌ»ó ÇÊ¿ä¾ø´Ù. B2¸¦ B3Ãà¹ÞÀÌ¿¡ ¿¡Æø½Ã·Î ºÙÀδÙ. ±¸¸ÛÀÌ ¹Ý´ëÂÊÀ¸·Î ºüÁöµµ·Ï ±¸¸ÛÀ» Á¶Á¤ÇÑ´Ù. À̵κÎÇ°¿¡ 2¹Ì¸®X15¹Ì¸®ÀÇ ³ª»ç¸¦ Áý¾î³Ö°í ²ËÁ¶ÀδÙ. ³ª»çÀÇ ºÎºÐÀ» ³ª´©°í Æ¢¾î³ª¿À°Ô ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø17) ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦¸¦ 1¹æ¿ï ¶³¾î¶ß¸°´Ù. Ä«º»ÆÇ¿¡¼ ¾à12¹Ì¸®Á÷°æÀÇ ¿øÆÇÀ» À߶󳽴Ù(ÀÍÇü±â¾î¿¡ µû¶ó¼ ´Ù¸§). 2¹Ì¸®µå¸±·Î °¡¿îµ¥¿¡ ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ´Â´Ù. B4ºÎÇ°ÀÌ µÈ´Ù. A1Ãà¿¡ ¿øÆÇÀ» ³¢¿ì°í B2, B3¸¦ ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø18) ÃàÀº ÀÌ¹Ì Ä«º»¿øÆÇÀ§¿¡ ¿¡Æø½Ã·Î ºÙ¿©Áú ÀÍÇü±â¾î¸¦ ¹Þ¾ÆµéÀÏ Áغñ°¡ µÆ´Ù. ºÎÇ°µéÀÌ Àß ¹èÄ¡µÆ´ÂÁö üũÇ϶ó : crown(¿Õ°ü, ¸¶°³, Á¤¼ö¸®)´Â µÚƲ¸²¾øÀÌ ¶Ç´Â ¹ÛÀ¸·Î ¹þ¾î³ª·Á°í ÇÏÁö ¸»°í µ¹¾Æ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. ¸¸ÀÏ ¾È ±×·¸´Ù¸é °íÃÄ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù.
¾Õ¼ ÀÛ¾÷Çß´ø ÆÇÀ¸·ÎºÎÅÍ F1°ú F2ÀÇ Ãø¸é 52¹Ì¸® X 15¹Ì¸®ÀÇ Á÷»ç°¢ÇüÀ¸·Î À߶󳽴Ù(»çÁø19). ±×°ÍµéÀº ±â¾î¹Ú½º(F1°ú F2·Î ¸í¸íµÊ)¸¦ Çü¼ºÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ±×°ÍµéÀÇ ¼öÄ¡°¡ ¶È°°°í ÇÑÆÇÀ¸·Î¼ ÇÔ²² À¯ÁöµÊÀ» ÁÖÀÇÇ϶ó Á¢Âø¼ºÅ×ÀÌÇÁ·Î ºÙ¿©¼ µå¸±°í ±¸¸Ûµµ °°ÀÌ ¶Õ´Â´Ù. ¿©±â¼ºÎÅÍ ±¸¸Û¶Õ´Â ÀÛ¾÷ÀÌ ³¡³¯¶§±îÁö µÎºÎÇ°À» ÇØüÇÏÁö¸¶¶ó. 1.6¹Ì¸® µå¸±·Î F1°ú F4ÀÇ ³×±ÍÅüÀÌ¿¡ ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ°í(»çÁø20), ÀÓ½ÃÀûÀ¸·Î ³ª»ç¸¦ ³¢¿î´Ù. Á¢Âø¼ºÅ×ÀÌÇÁ¸¦ Á¦°ÅÇÑ´Ù. ÃàÀÇ º£¾î¸µ¸¦ ¹Þ¾ÆµéÀÏ Áغñ°¡ µÆ´Ù. 17¹Ì¸® °¡ÀåÀÚ¸®¸¦ °¡Áø »çÀü¿¡ ¹Ì¸® ¶ÕÀº ±¸¸ÛÀ¸·ÎºÎÅÍ ½ÃÀÛÇ϶ó. ÁÙ·Î Á¡Á¡Å°¿ö¼(»çÁø21) º¼º£¾î¸µÀÌ ¾à°£ ÈûÁÖ¸é µ¹°ÔÇÑ´Ù. ´·¯¼´Â ¾ÈµÈ´Ù:±×°ÍÀº Á¤±³ÇÏ°Ô ÀÛµ¿ÇØ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. ¾ÆÁÖ ¾î·Á¿î ÀÛ¾÷Àº 2¹ø° º£¾î¸µ¸¦ °¡´ÉÇÑ ÇÑ Á¤È®ÇÏ°Ô Åé´Ï°¡ ¸Â°Ô À§Ä¡½ÃÅ°´Â °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ±×°ÍÀ» À§ÇØ ÃàA1°ú C1 crownÀ» ¼Â¾÷ÇÏ´Â °ÍÀÌ ¸ÕÀú ¼±ÇàµÇ°í ±×´ÙÀ½ C2ÀÍÇü±â¾î¸¦ À§Ä¡½ÃŲ´Ù. ±×´ÙÀ½ Á¡À» ÀÌ¿ëÇؼ ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶ÕÀ» ¼ö ÀÖÀ» °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø22) ±¸¸ÛÀ» Å©°ÔÇÑ´Ù. ÀÍÇü±â¾î¸¦ ÀåÂøÇÏ´Â µ¿¾È Åé´Ïµé¾î°¥ ÀÚ¸®°¡ ÃæºÐÇÑÁö üũÇÑ´Ù. ¸¸ÀÏ ´ç½ÅÀÇ ÀÛ¾÷ÀÌ ¿Ã¹Ù¸£¸é ¾ç¸éÀ» ºÐ¸®ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù. ÀÌÁ¦ F1Ãø¸é¿¡ °³¶Äá¸ð¾çÀÇ ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ´Â´Ù.(¼³°èµµ¸¦ º¸¶ó). ±× ±¸¸ÛÀº ³ª»ç¸¦ ¹Ú°Å³ª ¸ðÅÍÀÇ À§Ä¡¸¦ Á¶Á¤ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù. ´Ù¸¥¸é(F2)´Â 3¹Ì¸®ÀÇ ±¸¸Û 3°³¸¦ ¶Õ´Â °ÍÀ» ÀØÁö¸¶¶ó. ±× ±¸¸ÛÀº ¸ðÅÍ¿¡ ³ª»ç¸¦ ¹ÚÀ» ¼ö ÀÖ°í ÇǴϾð±â¾î¿Í ÀÍÇü±â¾î»çÀÌÀÇ Åé´Ï°ø°£À» Á¶ÀýÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ°Ô ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø23) ³¡³µ´Ù. ÇÁ·¹ÀÓ¿¡ µµÀüÇÏÀÚ.
The frame
Trace with precision the three F3 parts, F4, F5, who make the frame on plywood of 3mm (photo 24). Cut out the parts carefully using a hacksaw or a jig-saw (photo 25). Then sandpaper the parts finely. You will be able to make use of an Aluminum angle to obtain perfectly right edges as a square (photo 26) the two parts F3 and F4 will be then drilled right through. For that, to start by making a starting hole with a 1mm drill. To help you mark a reference points and traces it on the part for correct drilling (photo27). Increases; then holes until the dimension reach 1,6mm with a drill (photo 28). If you did not succeed in getting a long screw in M1, 6. You will have to solder two 12mm end to end. First cut them at the head then hold them in place in two pieces of threaded section referred to above then solder with tin (photo 29). It will be necessary to carry out four of them. Fit these screws into the holes previously drilled of the plates F3 and F4 and inject cyano to immobilize them. Assemble the sides FI and F2, tighten them with nuts, then adjust and stick the F5 part. It does not matter in which the end the 1mm carbon rod has to stick out off. Your assembly must resemble the photograph (photo 30). Let us continue by drilling the couple postholes in the frame to a depth of 1cm (photo 31).
Take care that the hole is in the axis of the future site of the wings. You help layout carried out on the F5 part. Introduce a carbon rod 1,5mm. Check that it is well positioned, then glue it. Cut out in the carbon plate the F6 part and glue it in place. Position the carbon rod of 1mm and leave a space on the rear of tail rod to inserted there. Drill the two bracket for the wings. The frame is finished. You can varnish it or paint it (photo 32).
<ÇÁ·¹ÀÓ>
ÇÁ·¹ÀÓÀ» ¸¸µå´Â F3,F4,F5 ¼¼ºÎÇ°À» 3¹Ì¸® Ç×°øÇÕÆÇ¿¡ Á¤±³ÇÏ°Ô ±×¸°´Ù(»çÁø24). ½ÇÅéÀ» ÀÌ¿ëÇÏ¿© Á¶½É½º·´°Ô ÀÚ¸¥´Ù(»çÁø25). »çÆ÷·Î Àß ¹®Áö¸¥´Ù. Á¤»ç°¢Çü¤··Î Á¤È®ÇÑ °¡ÀåÀÚ¸®¸¦ ¾ò±âÀ§Çؼ ¾Ë¹Ì´½¾Þ±ÛÀ» »ç¿ëÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù(»çÁø26). F3°ú F4ÀÇ µÎ ºÎÇ°¿¡ µå¸±·Î ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ´Â´Ù(»çÁø27). Ä¡¼ö°¡ 1.6¹Ì¸®¿¡ À̸¦ ¶§±îÁö µå¸±·Î ±¸¸ÛÀ» Å©°ÔÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø28) ¸¸ÀÏ ´ç½ÅÀÌ ±ä³ª»ç M1,6À» À» ±¸ÇÏÁö ¸øÇß´Ù¸é ´ç½ÅÀº 2°³ÀÇ 12¹Ì¸®¸¦ ¶«ÁúÇØ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. ¸ÕÀú ¸Ó¸®ºÎºÐÀ» ÀÚ¸£°í ³ª»ç»êºÎºÐÀÇ µÎ Á¶°¢À» ÇÑ °÷¿¡ ºÙÀâ°í ÁÖ¼®À¸·Î ¶«ÁúÇÑ´Ù.??(»çÁø29) 4°³¸¦ ¸¸µé¾î¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. F3,F4ÆÇ¿¡ ¹Ì¸® ¶Õ¾î³õÀº ±¸¸Û¿¡ ÀÌ ³ª»ç¸¦ ¹Ú°í ¿òÁ÷ÀÌÁö ¸øÇÏ°Ô ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦¸¦ ÁÖÀÔÇÑ´Ù. F1°ú F2ÀÇ Ãø¸éÀ» ºÙÀÌ°í ³ÓÆ®·Î °íÁ¤ÇÑ ÈÄ F5ºÎÇ°À» Á¶Á¤.ºÎÂøÇÑ´Ù. 1¹Ì¸® Ä«º»ºÀÀÇ ³¡ÀÌ ³ª¿À´Â °ÍÀº Áß¿äÄ¡ ¾Ê´Ù. ´ç½ÅÀÇ Á¶¸³Ç°ÀÌ »çÁø°ú ´à¾Æ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø30) 1¼¾Æ¼±íÀÌ·Î ÇÁ·¹ÀÓ¿¡ ±âµÕ¹Ú´Â ±¸¸ÛµéÀ» °è¼Ó ¶ÕÀÚ(»çÁø31). ±× ±¸¸ÛÀÌ ³ªÁß¿¡ ³¯°³ÀÇ ÃàÀÌ µÈ´Ù´Â °Í¿¡ ÁÖÀÇÇ϶ó. ´ç½ÅÀº F5ºÎÇ°À§ÀÇ µµ¸éÀ» º¸¸é µµ¿òÀÌ µÉ °ÍÀÌ´Ù. 1.5¹Ì¸®ÀÇ Ä«º»ºÀÀ» »ðÀÔÇÑ´Ù. Àß À§Ä¡Çß´ÂÁö üũÇÏ°í Ç®·Î ºÙ¿©¶ó. Ä«º»ÆÇ¿¡¼ F6ºÎÇ°À» Àß¶ó³»°í ¸Â´Â À§Ä¡¿¡ Ç®·Î ºÙ¿©¶ó. 1¹Ì¸®ÀÇ Ä«º»ºÀÀ» À§Ä¡½ÃÅ°°í ²¿¸®µÚ¿¡ °£°ÝÀ» ³²°Ü¶ó. ³¯°³¸¦ À§ÇÑ 2°³ÀÇ ¹Þħ´ë¸¦ µå¸±·Î ¶Õ´Â´Ù. ÇÁ·¹ÀÓÀÌ ³¡³µ´Ù. ´Ï½ºÄ¥À» Çϰųª ÆäÀÎƮĥÀ» Ç϶ó.(»çÁø32)
The axis A2
Prepare a carbon axis of 2mm X 25mm, stuck to semi-length in the hub of C2. Assembly of the reducer The sides dismounted F1 and F2, install the bearings with the shoulder inside and glue them. Slip of small rings made out of heat-shrinkable sleeve on both sides of the axes A1 and A2 in order to regulate the position of the crowns and to prevent that they do not rub on the sides. Place the axis A1 in its site then the axis A2. Assemble the sides on the frame. Carry out a test while turning the gears. It is not necessary that there is of hard point or friction. Check also the tooth space. All must turn freely. If it is not the case, adjust the bearings or the sides with more precision. Once testing is successfully, glue the lock bushings, cut the axis A2 to the good dimension and protect the gearbox counters possible residues which could block the bearings and pinions. We will mount the motor later, at the same time as electronics.
<Ãà A2>
2¹Ì¸® X 25¹Ì¸®ÀÇ Ä«º»ÃàÀ» ÁغñÇÏ°í, C2ÀÇ Çãºê¾È¿¡ ±æÀÌÀÇ ¹Ý¸¸Å ºÙÀδÙ. F1,F2ÀÇ ¿·¿¡ reducerÁ¶¸³Ç° º£¾î¸µÀ» ÀåÂøÇÏ°í Ç®·Î ºÙÀδÙ. A1°ú A2ÃàÀÇ ¾çÃø¸éÀ§¿¡ ¿¼öÃཽ¸®ºê(sleeve)·Î ¸¸µé¾îÁø ÀÛÀº °í¸®¸¦ ³¢¿î´Ù. (À§Ä¡À̵¿À» ¸·°í Ãø¸éÀÇ ¸¶ÂûÀ» ¹æÁöÇϱâ À§ÇÔÀÌ´Ù.) ÇÁ·¹ÀÓÀÇ Ãø¸éÀ» °áÇÕÇÑ´Ù. ±â¾î¸¦ µ¹¸®¸é¼ Å×½ºÆ®¸¦ ¼öÇàÇÑ´Ù. °É¸®´Â ºÎºÐÀ̳ª ¸¶ÂûÀÌ ÀÖÀ¸¸é ¾ÈµÈ´Ù. Åé´ÏÀÇ Ç¥¸éÀ» üũÇ϶ó. ¸ðµÎ Àß µ¹¾Æ¾ßÇÑ´Ù. ¾È ±×·¸´Ù¸é º£¾î¸µÀ» Á¶Á¤Çϰųª Á» ´õ Á¤±³ÇÏ°Ô ¸éÀ» Á¶Á¤ÇÑ´Ù. Å×½ºÆ®°¡ ¼º°øÀûÀ̾ú´Ù¸é Ãà¹ÞÀÌÅëÀ» ºÙÀÌ°í A2ÃàÀ» Á¤±³ÇÑ Ä¡¼ö·Î ÀÚ¸£°í (º£¾î¸µ°ú ÇǴϾðÀ» º¸È£ÇÒ)±â¾î¹Ú½ºÄ«¿îÅ͸¦ º¸È£ÇÑ´Ù. ¿ì¸®´Â ÀüÀÚºÎÇ°°ú ÇÔ²² ¸ðÅ͸¦ ³ªÁß¿¡ ÀåÂøÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
Manufacture of the cranks and the rods
Cut out of carbon plate two rectangles of 20mm X 10mm. Trace with precision the site of the holes using a compass (photo 33). The distance between centers is of 9mm. Simultaneously drill these two parts with a drill of 2mm. Assemble temporarily the two rectangles with the ball joint and the B1 ring then delicately sandpaper in order to eliminate roughness (photo 34). The realization of the rods does not pose any problem. Shorten the covers in order to have the distance between centers of the ball joints are 22mm and assemble them with a screw of 2mm decapitated beforehand and crossed to the length (photo 35). The 4 ball joints should now be ground. It is enough for that tired to go up on a drilling machine then to slightly sandpaper them with fine abrasive (600 or more) and water (photo36). It is necessary that the covers can move with a minimum of friction and without any play. Proceed slowly Attention: roll of the wings are different. They will have to be glued with cyano on a drill of 1,6mm to grind them (photo 37). To un-stick the ball joint, heat it with a lighter. These finished operations, you can screw the ball joints shouldered on the cranks and to cut the surplus of threading (photo 38).
<Å©·©Å©¿Í Ä¿³ØÆ÷εå Á¦ÀÛ>
Ä«º»ÆÇÀ» 20mmX10mm·Î À߶󳽴Ù. ÄÄÆĽº¸¦ »ç¿ëÇÏ¿© ±¸¸ÛÀÇ Á¤È® À§Ä¡¸¦ ÃßÀûÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø33) Á߽ɻçÀÌÀÇ °Å¸®´Â 9mmÀÌ´Ù. µ¿½Ã¿¡ 2mmÀÇ µå¸±·Î µÎ ºÎÇ°ÀÇ ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ´Â´Ù. µÎ »ç°¢ÇüÀ» º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®·Î Àӽ÷Π°íÁ¤ÇÏ°í B1°í¸®(ring)ÀÇ °ÅÄ£¸éÀ» Á¤±³ÇÑ »çÆ÷·Î ¹®Áö¸¥´Ù.(»çÁø34) ·ÎµåÀÇ ÀνÄÀº ¾î¶²¹®Á¦µµ ¹ß»ý½ÃÅ°Áö ¾Ê´Â´Ù.(?) º¼ Á¶ÀÎÆ®ÀÇ Áß¾Ó»çÀÌÀÇ °Å¸®¸¦ 22mm·Î Çϱâ À§ÇØ Ä¿¹ö¸¦ Á¼°ÔÇÏ¸ç ´ë°¡¸®¸¦ ÀÚ¸¥ 2mmÀÇ ³ª»ç¸øÀ¸·Î °áÇÕÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø35) 4º¼ Á¶ÀÎÆ®¸¦ ÀÌÁ¦ ÀåÂøÇÑ´Ù. µå¸±·Î ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ°í ¿¬¸¶Á¦¿Í ÇÔ²² °í¿î »çÆ÷·Î(600 ¶Ç´Â ±×ÀÌ»ó) ´Û°í ¹°·Î ¾Ä´Â´Ù. Ä¿¹ö°¡ ÃÖ¼ÒÀÇ ¸¶Âû·Î ¿òÁ÷ÀÏ ¼ö ÀÖµÇ ³îÁö¸»¾Æ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. õõÈ÷ ÁÖÀDZí°Ô º¸¶ó : ȸÀüÀÌ ´Ù¸£´Ù. 1.6mm µå¸±·Î ¶Õ°í ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦(cyano)·Î ºÙ¿©¾ß ÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø37) º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®¸¦ ¶¼°í ¶óÀÌÅÍ·Î ÁöÁø´Ù. ÀÌ ¸¶¹«¸®ÀÛ¾÷À» ÇÏ¸é ´ç½ÅÀº º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®¸¦ Å©·©Å©¿¡ µ¹·Á ³ÖÀ» ¼ö ÀÖ°í ¾Èµé¾î°£ ³ª¸ÓÁö¸¦ À߶󳾼öÀÖ´Ù.
Assembly of the cranks on the axis of exit A1 Prepare the two B1 rings by providing them with a pin cut to the length which will be used for the pins (photo 39). Slip a B1 ring on the axis A1 (photo 40). At glue the crank on the ring (photo 41).
Attention not to glue the axis! For that, glue the parts slightly, withdraw to them axis and finish joining. Make the same operation of the other with dimensions by aligning the two cranks perfectly. Be wary: an important shift would affect certainly the good behavior of the machine.
<A1ÀÇ Ãà ³¡¿¡ Å©·©Å© °áÇÕÇϱâ>
ÇÉÀ¸·Î »ç¿ëµÉ ±æÀÌ´ë·Î ÀÚ¸¥ ÇÉ°ú ÇÔ²² µÎ°³ÀÇ B1°í¸®(ring)À» ÁغñÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø 39) B1°í¸®¸¦ A1Ãà¿¡ ³Ö´Â´Ù.(»çÁø40) °í¸®¿¡ Å©·©Å©¸¦ Ç®·Î ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø41) ÃàÀÌ Ç®·Î ºÙÁö ¾Êµµ·Ï Á¶½ÉÇ϶ó. ±×·¸°Ô Çϱâ À§Çؼ´Â ºÎÇ°¿¡ ¾à°£¸¸ ǮĥÀ» ÇÏ°í Ãà¿¡¼ ¹°·¯³ª¼(?) °áÇÕÀ» ¿Ï¼ºÇÑ´Ù. ´Ù¸¥ Âʵµ µÎ°³ÀÇ Å©·©Å©°¡ Á¤·ÄµÇµµ·Ï °°Àº Ä¡¼ö·Î °°Àº ÀÛ¾÷À» ÇÑ´Ù.
Á¶½É : shift(º¯¼ÓÀåÄ¡, ±â¾îº¯È¯ÀåÄ¡)´Â ±â°è°¡ Àß ÀÛµ¿Çϴµ¥ È®½ÇÈ÷ ¿µÇâÀ» ÁØ´Ù.
Construction of the aerofoil
The Tail and Rudder...
Consists of 5 carbon rods of 1mm, stuck and bound. Having before covered the plan with a sheet of polyethylene, assemble the two parts constituting the tail (photo 42).
Prepare in a sheet of depron a gauge having an angle of 110¡Æ (photo
43).
Place part A of the tail on the part B by helping you of the gauge and glue the all to with cyano (photo 44).
A little accelerator will be welcome. With carbon strand recovered from the fabric of 95g/m2, bind the 4 assemblage points (photo 45).
Caution: the tail remains fragile as long as it is not bound completely. Sandpaper the unit finely, especially the top, because the following step will cover it. Cut out a piece of Litespan a rectangle, approximately 22cm X 12cm. If your sheet has creases, you can remove them by ironing it with a moderately hot iron. Do not apply too much heat as this fabric is heat sensitive. Paste the needle rod of the rudder as well as the two branches on the same side with adhesive in stick (photo 46).
Fold the piece of sheet of them two in the direction of the width and lay out the folding on the section of a small plank of depron. Apply the needle rod of the stab to the edge. You of the small plank help to tighten the cover correctly (photo 47).
Make the same for the other side of the tail. When the covering appears correct to you, glue it on the carbon rods with cyano deposited on the point of a flat screwdriver (photo 48).
Cut out the sheet surplus using a scissors (photo 49).
Cut out in tender balsa of 1mm the two rudder. Coat the top of the rudder with adhesive stick. Cover them and tighten the coating without heating it (photo 50).
Stick a stiffener on each control surface. Trace, then cut out, two arm levers out of a credit card. Drill them with a drill of 0.5mm and stick them in the small groove next to the stiffener (photo 51).
You can colour the lower part of the rudder with a felt marker. Assemble the rudder on the tail with adhesive tape, which will play the part of hinge. Check that the rudder discuss without stress. The tail is finished.
³¯°³ÀÇ Á¦ÀÛ
²¿¸®¿Í ¹æÇâŸ(·¯´õ, rudder)
1¹Ì¸® Ä«º»ºÀ 5°³·Î ±¸¼ºµÈ´Ù. ³¢¿ö³õ°í ¹´Â´Ù. Æú¸®¿¡Æ¿·» ½ÃÆ®·Î ¼³°èµµ¸¦ µ¤±âÀü¿¡ ²¿¸®¸¦ ±¸¼ºÇÏ´Â 2°³ÀÇ ºÎÇ°À» ¿¬°áÇ϶ó.(»çÁø42)
Å×ÇÁ·Ð(depron)½ÃÆ® À§¿¡ °¢µµ°è·Î 110µµ¸¦ ±×·Á¼ ÃøÁ¤ÀÚ¸¦ À߶ó³ö¶ó(»çÁø43)
ÃøÁ¤ÀÚÀÇ µµ¿òÀ» ¹Þ¾Æ ²¿¸®ºÎÇ°BÀ§¿¡ ²¿¸®ºÎÇ°A¸¦ ³õ°í ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø44)
ÀÛÀº ¾Ç¼¼·¹ÀÌÅÍ°¡ ȯ¿µ¹ÞÀ» °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(?) 95g/m2ÀÇ Ä«º»ÃµÀ¸·ÎºÎÅÍ »ÌÀº Ä«º»½Ç(?)·Î 4°³ÀÇ °áÇպκÐÀ» ¹´Â´Ù.(»çÁø45)
ÁÖÀÇ»çÇ× : ²¿¸®´Â ¿ÏÀüÈ÷ ¹Áö ¾Ê´Â ÇÑ ºÎ¼Áö±â ½¬¿î »óÅ·Π³²´Â´Ù.
»çÆ÷·Î À¯´Ö(ƯÈ÷ ÀºÎºÐ)À» Àß ¹®Áö¸¥´Ù. ¿Ö³ÄÇÏ¸é ´ÙÀ½´Ü°è´Â ±×°Í¿¡ LitespanÀ» ºÙÀÌ´Â °ÍÀ̱⠶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù. LitespanÀÇ Á¶°¢À» ´ë·« 22¼¾Æ¼ X 12¼¾Æ¼·Î ÀÚ¸¥´Ù. ¸¸ÀÏ ´ç½ÅÀÇ Litespan½ÃÆ®°¡ ÂÞ±ÛÂÞ±ÛÇÏ´Ù¸é ¾à°£ ¶ß°Å¿î ´Ù¸®¹Ì·Î ´Ù·Á¼ ÁÖ¸§À» Æî ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù. ½ÃÆ®°¡ ¿¿¡ ¹Î°¨ÇϹǷΠ³Ê¹« ¶ß°Ì°Ô ´Ù¸²ÁúÇÏÁö ¸¶¶ó. Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î °°Àº ¸é¿¡ ÀÖ´Â µÎ°³ÀÇ °¡Áöó·³ ¹æÇâŸÀÇ ¹Ù´Ã ¸·´ë±â(needle rod)¸¦ ºÙÀδÙ.(??)(»çÁø 46)
±× ½ÃÆ®¸¦ ³ÐÀÌ ¹æÇâÀ¸·Î µÑ·Î Á¢¾î Å×ÇÁ·ÐÀÇ ÀÛÀº ÆÇÀÚÀÇ ºÎºÐÀ§¿¡ ¿Ã·Á ³õ´Â´Ù. ¼öÆò¹ÌÀÍ(stabilizer)ÀÇ ¹Ù´Ã¸·´ë±â °¡ÀåÀÚ¸®¿¡ Àû¿ëÇ϶ó. ÀÛÀº ÆÇÀÚ´Â Ä¿¹ö¸¦ źźÇÏ°Ô ¸¸µé¾î ÁÙ°ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø47)
°í¸®ÀÇ ´Ù¸¥ Ãø¸éµµ ¶È°°ÀÌ ¸¸µé¶ó. Ä¿¹ö°¡ ¿Ã¹Ù¸£°Ô µÆÀ¸¸é ÆòÆòÇÑ µå¶óÀ̹öÀÇ À§Ä¡¿¡ ³õ¿©Áø ź¼ÒºÀÀ§¿¡ ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø48) ½ÃÆ®ÀÇ À׿©ºÎºÐÀ» °¡À§·Î ¤¸¹ß¶ó³½´Ù.(»çÁø49) 1¹Ì¸® ºÎµå·¯¿î ¹ß»ç³ª¹«·Î ¹æÇ⟠2°³¸¦ À߶󳽴Ù. ¹æÇâŸÀÇ À§¸¦ Á¢Âø¼ºÀÖ´Â ¸·´ë±â·Î ÄÚÆÃÇÑ´Ù. ±×°ÍÀ» µ¤°í ¿À» °¡ÇÏÁö ¾Ê°í ÄÚÆÃÀ» ´Ü´ÜÇÏ°Ô ÇÑ°¡.(»çÁø50) °¢ ¹æÇ⟠ǥ¸é¿¡ ½É(stiffener)À» Âñ·¯ ³Ö´Â´Ù. Arm lever¸¦ ½Å¿ëÄ«µå¿¡ ±×·Á¼ À߶󳽴Ù. 0.5¹Ì¸® µå¸±·Î ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ°í ½É¿·¿¡ ÀÛÀº Ȩ¿¡ ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø51)´ç½ÅÀº ¹æÇâŸÀÇ ³·Àº ºÎºÐ¿¡ õ ¸¶ÅÍÆæÀ¸·Î Ä¥ÇÒ¼öÀÖ´Ù. ÈùÁöÀÇ ºÎºÐÀ¸·Î ÀÛ¿ëÇÒ Á¢Âø¼ºÅ×ÀÌÇÁ·Î ²¿¸®¿¡ ¹æÇ⟸¦ °áÇÕÇÑ´Ù. ¹æÇ⟰¡ Àß ÀÛµ¿ÇÏ´ÂÁö üũÇÏ¶ó ²¿¸®°¡ ¿Ï¼ºµÆ´Ù.
Wings
Producing the wing spar
I hope that you could get the grooved aluminum section described previously to carry out the following assembly. Cut two lengths of approximately 30cm of section, which you will fix with G-clamps on a square (photo 52).
<³¯°³>
³¯°³ÀÍÇü ¸¸µé±â
³ª´Â ´ÙÀ½´Ü°è¸¦ ÁøÇàÇϱâ À§ÇÏ¿© ´ç½ÅÀÌ È¨ÀÌ ÆÄÀÎ ¾Ë¹Ì´½Á¶°¢À» ¾ò¾ú±â¸¦ Èñ¸ÁÇÑ´Ù. ¾à30¼¾Ä¡¹ÌÅÍÀÇ ±æÀÌÀÇ Á¶°¢À» 2°³ À߶󳽴Ù. ±× Á¶°¢Àº Àå¹æÇüÀ¸·Î G-clamp(Áý°Ô)·Î °íÁ¤ÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø52)
The grooves will help to align the carbon rods perfectly on the brass tube. Prepare to construct by cutting two lengths of 25cm and two lengths of 7cm in carbon rod 1,5mm diameter. Two brass tubes of 20mm X 1,6mm are also necessary. Mark two reference points, spaced of 10mm on the brass tubes (photo 53).
±× ȨÀº Ä«º»ºÀÀÌ ³ò¼èÆ©ºêÀ§¿¡ ¿Ïº®ÇÏ°Ô ¹è¿µÉ ¼ö ÀÖµµ·Ï µµ¿ï °ÍÀÌ´Ù. 1.5¹Ì¸®Á÷°æÀÇ Ä«º»ºÀÀ» 25¼¾Ä¡ 2°³, 7¼¾Ä¡ 2°³ÀÇ ±æÀÌ·Î À߶󳻾î Á¶¸³Áغñ¸¦ ÇÑ´Ù. 2°³ÀÇ 20¹Ì¸® X 1.6¹Ì¸®ÀÇ ³ò¼èÆ©ºê°¡ ´õ ÇÊ¿äÇÏ´Ù. ³ò¼èÆ©ºêÀ§¿¡ 10¹Ì¸®ÀÇ °£°ÝÀ» ¶ç¿ö 2°³ÀÇ ÂüÁ¶Á¡À» Ç¥½ÃÇÑ´Ù. (»çÁø53)
They will be used to position the carbon rods. Place the rods of 25cm in a groove of the horizontal section. Place the brass tube in the corresponding groove on the vertical section with making correspond to the reference mark on the ends of the carbon rod. Put a drop of cyano at the intersection (photo54).
±×°ÍµéÀº Ä«º»ºÀÀ» À§Ä¡½ÃÅ°´Âµ¥ ¾²ÀÏ °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ¼öÆòºÎºÐÀÇ È¨¿¡ 25¼¾Æ¼ÀÇ Ä«º»ºÀÀ» À§Ä¡½ÃŲ´Ù. Ä«º»ºÀÀÇ ³¡¿¡ ÀÖ´Â ÂüÁ¶Á¡°ú ¿¬°üµÇ´Â ¼öÁ÷ºÎºÐÀ§ÀÇ È¨¿¡ ³ò¼èÆ©ºê¸¦ À§Ä¡½ÃŲ´Ù. ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦¸¦ ±³Â÷Á¡¿¡ Çѹæ¿ï ¶³¾î¶ß¸°´Ù.(»çÁø 54)
After having slightly beveled the end of the 7 cm rod, in order to increase the surface of contact, glue the pieces with cyano by helping you with the reference marks traced previously (photo 55).
Á¢Ã˸éÀ» ³Ð°Ô Çϱâ À§ÇÏ¿© 7¼¾Æ¼ÀÇ ºÀÀÇ ³¡ºÎºÐÀ» ¾à°£ ºñ½ºµëÈ÷ ÀÚ¸¥ ÈÄ ¾Õ¼ÀÇ ÂüÁ¶Á¡À» º¸¸é¼ ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø55)
Remove the part of the grooves and bind on the level of the junction arm-stiffener with fine carbon wick. If all is well, your part will resemble the photo in 56. (photo 56).
³ª¸ÓÁö ȨÀ» Á¦°ÅÇÏ°í Ä«º»½ÉÁö·Î ¹´Â´Ù. ´Ù ÀßµÆÀ¸¸é »çÁø56°ú ºñ½ÁÇÒ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø56)
Start again in the same to construct the other arm. The purpose of the following stage is to reinforce the part of the arm that makes the hinge. Cut out in of depron of 3mm a square of 5cm on the side which yields best feature for marking in pencil, mark the center then mark the fold (adhesive tape stuck on the opposite face will prevent that depron does not tear with folding). Prepare two squares of carbon fabric 3cm to cover both sides (photo 57).
¸¶Âù°¡Áö ¹æ¹ýÀ¸·Î ´Ù¸¥ ÆÈ(arm)À» Á¶¸³ÇÑ´Ù. ¾Æ·¡ÀÇ °¢´Ü°èÀÇ ¸ñÀûÀº °æøÀ» ±¸¼ºÇÒ ÆÈ(arm)À» Àç°ÈÇϱâ À§ÇÑ°ÍÀÌ´Ù. 3¹Ì¸®¹ÌÅÍÀÇ µ¥ÇÁ·ÐÀ» 5¼¾Æ¼¹ÌÅÍ Á¤»ç°¢ÇüÀ¸·Î ÀÚ¸¥´Ù. ±× Ç¥¸éÀ§¿¡ ¿¬ÇÊ·Î Áß½ÉÁ¡°ú Á¢´Â¼±À» Ç¥½ÃÇÑ´Ù.(Á¡Âø¼º Å×ÀÌÇÁ¸¦ µÚ¿¡ ºÙÀÌ¸é µ¥ÇÁ·ÐÀ» Á¢À» ¶§ Âõ¾îÁö´Â°ÍÀ» ¹æÁöÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù.)(»çÁø57)
Resin the carbon sandwich according to the method described at the beginning of the article. Your fabric part being covered with film polyethylene on each side, pose it on the plate of depron, align the brass with the wing spar on the axis of the folding traced previously and fold up the whole on the wing spar (photo 58).
ÀÛ¾÷¼³¸í¼ ¸Ç¾Õ¿¡¼ ¾ð±ÞÇÑ ¹æ¹ýÀ» µû¶ó Ä«º»Ãµ¿¡ ÇÕ¼º¼öÁö¸¦ ½º¸çµé°ÔÇÑ´Ù. ´ç½ÅÀÇ ÃµÀÇ ¾ç¸éÀ» Æú¸®¿¡Æ¼·» Çʸ§À¸·Î °¨½ÎÁ® ÀÖ°í, µ¥ÇÁ·Ð ÆÇÀÇ À§¿¡ ¿Ã·ÁÁ®ÀÖ°í, ¾Õ¼ ¾ê±âÇß´ø Á¢´Â ¼±ÀÇ ÃàÀ§¿¡ ÀÖ´Â ³¯°³ÀÍÇü¿¡ ³ò¼è°¡ Á¤·ÄµÇ¾î ÀÖ°í, ³¯°³ÀÍÇüÀ§¿¡ Àüü°¡ Á¢ÇôÁ® ÀÖ´Ù.(»çÁø58)
Hold the part with G-clamps (photo 59).
±× ºÎºÐÀ» Áý°Ô·Î Âó´Â´Ù.(»çÁø 59)
Start again the operation on the other wing spar. After complete drying, un-mould the reinforcements (photo 60).
´Ù¸¥ ³¯°³ÀÍÇü¿¡ °°Àº ÀÛ¾÷À» ½ÃÀÛÇÑ´Ù. ¿ÏÀüÈ÷ ¸¶¸£¸é, Àç°ÈÇÑ°ÍÀ» Ʋ¿¡¼ »©³½´Ù.
Remove the film polyethylene and parallel to cut the surplus fabric, the tube brass over a width of 10mm. Replace the spar in the reinforcements, stick to the cyano. Re-cut the brass tube and the reinforcement with the final dimension of 12mm (photo 61)
and finish the part with fine sandpaper (photo 62).
Æú¸®¿¡Æ¿·» Çʸ§À» Á¦°ÅÇÏ°í, 10¹Ì¸® ³ÐÀÌÀÇ ³ò¼èÆ©ºê¿¡ ÆòÇàÀ¸·Î ÇÏ¿© À׿© õÀ» Á¦°ÅÇÑ´Ù. Àç°ÈÇÏ´Â °Í¿¡¼ ÀÍÇüÀ» ´ëüÇÏ°í ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÙÀδÙ. ³ò¼èÆ©ºê¿Í Àç°ÈÇÏ´Â °ÍÀ» 12¹Ì¸®ÀÇ ÃÖÁ¾Ä¡¼ö·Î ´Ù½Ã ÀÚ¸¥´Ù.(»çÁø61) ºÎÇ°À» »çÆ÷·Î ¸¶¹«¸®ÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø 62)
It is time to bring out the rods as well as the ball joints, which you ground to fix them on the wing spar. Check once again that the ball joints slide freely in the covers, after this it will be too late. Cut two lengths of 2cm in rod carbon of 1.5rnm. Slip and glue with cyano the ball joint in each rod and assemble the rod (photo 63).
³¯°³ÀÍÇü¿¡ ºÎÂøÇÒ º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®»Ó¾Æ´Ï¶ó ºÀÀ» °¡Á®¿Â´Ù. º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®°¡ ³¯°³¾È¿¡¼ Á¦¸Ú´ë·Î ³ë´ÂÁö üũÇ϶ó.³ªÁß¿¡ ÀÌ°ÍÀÌ ¹ß°ßµÇ¸é ±×¶§´Â ´Ê´Ù. 2¹Ì¸®¹ÌÅÍ ±æÀÌ·Î 1.5¹Ì¸®ÀÇ Ä«º»ºÀÀ» ÀÚ¸¥´Ù. °¢ Ä«º»ºÀ¿¡ º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®¸¦ Áý¾î³Ö°í ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÙ¿©¼ ºÀÀ» °áÇÕÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø63)
Glue the part under each arm. The distance between the axis of the tube brass and the axis of the rod is 17mm. Bind the axis of the ball joint with wire kevlar and cyano and cut the ends which exceed (photo 64).
°¢°¢ Æȹؿ¡¼ ºÎÇ°µéÀ» ºÙÀδÙ. ³ò¼èÆ©ºêÀÇ Ãà »çÀÌÀÇ °Å¸®¿Í ºÀÀÇ ÃàÀº 17¹Ì¸®¹ÌÅÍÀÌ´Ù. º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®ÀÇ ÃàÀ» ÄÉºí·¯ ¿ÍÀ̾î·Î ¹´Â´Ù. ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦¸¦ ¹Ù¸£°í ºñÁ׳ª¿Â ³¡ºÎºÐÀ» ÀÚ¸¥´Ù.(»çÁø64)
The spar are finished for now, they only remain to be covered.
ÀÌÁ¦ ÀÍÇüÀº ¿Ï¼ºµÆ´Ù. Ä¿¹öµ¤±â¸¸ ³²Àº °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
Fixings of wings
In section Aluminum in "L" of 1mm thickness, cut out four squares of 7mm broad (photograph 65)
and adjust them with the dimension of the plan with fine files. It only remains to drill them with precision and to install them on the frame (Photo 66).
Cut away the part of the bracket which exceeds.
<³¯°³°íÁ¤Çϱâ>
1¹Ì¸® µÎ²²ÀÇ LÀÚÇü ¾Ë¹Ì´½¿¡¼ 7¹Ì¸®ÀÇ Á¤»ç°¢ÇüÀ» 4°³ À߶󳽴Ù.(»çÁø65)
±×¸®°í °í¿î ÁÙÄ®·Î ¼³°èµµ Ä¡¼ö´ë·Î ´Ùµë´Â´Ù. Á¤È®ÇÏ°Ô ±¸¸ÛÀ» ¶Õ°í ÇÁ·¹ÀÓ¿¡ °áÇÕ½ÃŲ´Ù.(»çÁø66)
Assembly and covering of the model Fixing of the tail
Nothing complicated now...
Cut out in of depron of 3mm a gauge forming an angle of 169¡Æ. It will enable you to fix the tail with an angle of 11¡Æ compared to the wings. Fix the gauge on the frame with adhesive tape, slip the carbon rod exceeding out of the tail between the two rods of the frame plate the stab on the gauge. Adjust the angle with precision. Check that the tail is not through and stick to the cyano (photo67).
<¸ðÇüÀÇ Á¶¸³°ú Ä¿¹öµ¤±â>
²¿¸®ÀÇ °íÁ¤
3¹Ì¸® µ¥ÇÁ·ÐÀ» °¢µµ±â¸¦ ÀÌ¿ëÇؼ 169µµ °¢µµ·Î ÀÚ¸¥´Ù. ±×°ÍÀº ²¿¸®¸¦ ³¯°³¿¡ ºñ±³Çؼ 11µµ °¢µµ·Î °íÁ¤½ÃÄÑÁÙ °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ½ºÄ«Ä¡Å×ÀÌÇÁ·Î ÇÁ·¹ÀÓÀ§¿¡ °¢µµ±â¸¦ °íÁ¤½ÃÅ°°í, ÇÁ·¹ÀÓÆÇÀ§ÀÇ µÎ Ä«º»ºÀ»çÀÌ¿¡ ÀÖ´Â ²¿¸®¸¦ ÃÊ°úÇÏ´Â Ä«º»ºÀÀ» Áý¾î³Ö´Â´Ù.
(?) Á¤È®ÇÏ°Ô °¢µµ¸¦ Á¶Á¤Ç϶ó. ²¿¸®°¡ ÃæºÐÄ¡ ¾ÊÀºÁö üũÇÏ°í ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø 67)
Close tail with a small carbon plate. By helping you to saw with a jig-saw, cut out a notch in tail along the upper member (photo 68).
ÀÛÀº Ä«º»ÆÇÀ¸·Î ²¿¸®¸¦ µ¤´Â´Ù. ½ÇÅéÀ¸·Î À§ÀÇ °ÍµéÀ» µû¶ó¼ ²¿¸®¿¡ ȨÀ» »õ±ä´Ù.(»çÁø 68)
It will be used to place a plate which will be used to support the servos.
±×°ÍÀº ¼º¸¸¦ ÁöÁöÇϱâÀ§ÇÑ ÆÇÀ¸·Î »ç¿ëµÉ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
Fixing the wing spar
Place the wing spar between the aluminum squares and support them in place with pins, which will act as hinges (photo 69).
You will have to file the side of the brass tubes of the pins because you will realize that they will not pass through because the fastening screws are obstructing its path. Secure the pins with varnish. Place the connecting wing spar on their places on the cranks, ball joints. Turn mechanics and check the angles of wing flap (the values given on the plan are average values: 1 or 2 degrees of difference should not affect the flight).
<³¯°³ÀÍÇü °íÁ¤Çϱâ>
³¯°³ÀÍÇüÀ» ¾Ë¹Ì´½ »ç°¢Çü»çÀÌ¿¡ ³õ°í ÇÉÀ¸·Î À¯Áö½ÃŲ´Ù. ÇÉÀÌ °æøÀÇ ¿ªÇÒÀ» ÇÒ°ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø69)
´ç½ÅÀº ÇÉÀÇ ³ò¼èÆ©ºêÀÇ Ãø¸éÀ» Á¤¸®ÇØ¾ß ÇÒ°ÍÀÌ´Ù. ¿Ö³ÄÇÏ¸é °íÁ¤½ÃŲ ³ª»ç°¡ ¾Õ±æÀ» ¸·°í ÀÖÀ¸¹Ç·Î Áö³ª°¥¼ö ¾ø´Ù´Â °ÍÀ» ¾Ë °ÍÀ̱⠶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù. ´Ï½ºÄ¥·Î ÇÉÀ» º¸È£ÇÑ´Ù. Ä¿³ØÆó¯°³ÀÍÇüÀ» Å©·©Å©À§ÀÇ Á¦ À§Ä¡¿¡ ³õ°í, º¼Á¶ÀÎÆ®·Î ÁÌ´Ù. ÀåÄ¡(mechnics)À» µ¹·Áº¸¸é¼ ³¯°³°¢µµ¸¦ üũÇÑ´Ù.(¼³°èµµ»ó¿¡ ÁÖ¾îÁø °ªÀº Æò±ÕÄ¡ÀÌ´Ù : 1 ¶Ç´Â 2µµÀÇ Â÷ÀÌ´Â ºñÇà¿¡ ¿µÇâÀ» ¹ÌÄ¡Áö ¾Ê´Â´Ù.)
Covering of the wings
<³¯°³ µ¤±â>
Trace the contour(À±°û) of the aerofoil on Litespan using a gauge. Trace the axis of symmetry as well as the site of the stiffeners (photo 70)
°¢µµ±â¸¦ ÀÌ¿ëÇÏ¿© ³¯°³ÀÇ À±°ûÀ» LitespanÀ§¿¡ ±×¸°´Ù. °íÁ¤¼è(stiifener)ÀÇ À§Ä¡»Ó¾Æ´Ï¶ó ´ëĪÀÇ Ã൵ ±×¸°´Ù.(»çÁø 70)
then cut out without leaving of margin. Coat the wing spar as well as the upper member of the frame with adhesive in a stick. Thanks to it, you will be able to position the coating correctly because it does not stick immediately. Position with precision sheet while starting by sticking it on the central member by holding account of the tracing. Stick then the coating on the wing spar. Fix the stiffeners at their place with adhesive tape. Caution! The tension of paper must be rigorously equal on the two wings. You can check it by looking at the curve of sheet on the level of the trailing edge takes (photo 71)
it must be identical on the other sides. I allow myself to insist bus if the difference in tension is very important your machine will be put systematically in turn and you cannot control it. Once that you are sure of your covering, definitively stick the sheet with the cyano.
±×´ÙÀ½ ¿©¹é¾øÀÌ À߶󳽴Ù. À§ÀÇ °Íµé»Ó¾Æ´Ï¶ó ³¯°³ÀÍÇüÀ» ¸·´ë¿¡ Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÙÀδÙ. ±×°Í ´öºÐ¿¡ ´ç½ÅÀº Ä¿¹ö¸¦ ¹Ù¸£°Ô À§Ä¡½Ãų¼ö ÀÖ´Ù. ¿Ö³ÄÇϸé Áï½Ã ºÙÁö´Â ¾Ê±â ¶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù. °¡¿îµ¥ °ÍµéÀ§¿¡ ±×°ÍÀ» ºÙÀ̱⠽ÃÀÛÇÒ ¶§ Á¤È®ÇÑ À§Ä¡¸¦ ÀâÀ¸¶ó. ³¯°³ÀÍÇüÀÇ¿¡ Ä¿¹ö¸¦ ºÙÀδÙ. ½ºÄ«Ä¡Å×ÀÌÇÁ·Î °íÁ¤¼è(stiffner)¸¦ °íÁ¤Ç϶ó. ÁÖÀÇÁ¡! Á¾ÀÌÀÇ Àå·ÂÀÌ ¾çÂʳ¯°³°¡ °°¾Æ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. °¡ÀåÀÚ¸®ÀÇ ÈÖ¾îÁø ¸ð¾çÀ¸·Î ÀÌ°ÍÀ» üũÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖ´Ù.(»çÁø71) ¾çÂÊÀÌ ¶È°°¾Æ¾ß ÇÑ´Ù. Àå·ÂÀÌ ´Ù¸£¸é ´ç½ÅÀÇ ±â°è´Â ÇÑÂÊÀ¸·Î ¼±È¸ÇÏ°í ´ç½ÅÀº ÅëÁ¦ÇÒ ¼ö ¾ø°Ô µÈ´Ù. Ä¿¹ö¿¡ ´ëÇÏ¿© È®½ÅÇß´Ù¸é ¼ø°£Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ¸íÈ®ÇÏ°Ô ºÙÀδÙ.
Shaping of the head
It is the least delicate part to produce because it really does not take part in the flight of the machine. I advise you nevertheless to produce one because it is be used as damping device in the event of crash. It also takes part in centering. Start by drawing a template on a sheet of cardboard then transfer the outline on to a sheet of Styrofoam of 10mm thickness. Sandpaper with fine abrasive to round the forms. Give two coats of white matt acrylic paint on the head. After drying, sandpaper with a 600 grit and with water in order to obtain a smooth surface. Brush and decorate according to your tastes. One or two layers of varnish will protect your work effectively (photo 72).
Fix the head on the frame with adhesive dou-corn-face.
<¸Ó¸®¸¸µé±â>
¸Ó¸®¸¦ ¸¸µå´Â °ÍÀº Á¦ÀÏ Á¤±³ÇÏÁö ¾ÊÀº ÀÛ¾÷ÀÌ´Ù. ¿Ö³ÄÇÏ¸é ±×°ÍÀº ±â°èÀÇ ºñÇà¿¡ ½ÇÁ¦·Î °ü·ÃµÇÁö ¾Ê±â ¶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù. ±×·³¿¡µµ ºÒ±¸ÇÏ°í Ãæµ¹ÀÇ °æ¿ì¿¡ ¿ÏÃæÀåÄ¡À̱⠶§¹®¿¡ ¸¸µé °ÍÀ» ±ÇÇÑ´Ù. ¶ÇÇÑ ¸Ó¸®´Â °¡¿îµ¥¸¦ Â÷ÁöÇÑ´Ù. Ä«º»ÆÇ¿¡ º»(template)¸¦ ³õ°í ±×¸®±â ½ÃÀÛÇÑ ´ÙÀ½ ¤·ˆH°û¼±À» 10mmµÎ²²ÀÇ ½ºÆ¼·ÎÆûÆÇ¿¡ ¿Å±ä´Ù. °í¿î »çÆ÷·Î ÇüŸ¦ ¹®Áö¸¥´Ù. Èò¹«±¤ÅþÆÅ©¸± ÆäÀÎÆ®·Î 2¹øÄ¥ÇÑ´Ù. ¸¶¸¥ÈÄ ºÎµå·¯¿î Ç¥¸éÀ» ¾ò±âÀ§ÇØ 600ÀÇ »çÆ÷¿Í ¹°·Î ¹®Áö¸¥´Ù. ¼ÖÁúÀ» ÇÏ°í ±âÈ£¿¡ µû¶ó Ä¡ÀåÇÑ´Ù. ÇѵÎÃþÀÇ ´Ï½º¸¦ ¹ß¶óÁÖ¾î º¸ÇÏÇÑ´Ù.(»çÁø72). ¾ç¸éÅ×ÀÌÇÁ·Î ¸Ó¸®¸¦ ºÙÀδÙ.
Installation of the motor
Cut the threads of two screws of 1.6M to 2,5mm in length to the head (photo
73).
Fix the pinion on the shaft with the epoxy. Assemble the motor on the F1 side with the two screws and regulate the teeth spacing while looking through the hole on the other side. Turn the unit manually: there should not be any stiff point. Tighten the screws and secure them with varnish.
<¸ðÅÍÀÇ ÀåÂø>
1.6M ³ª»ç¸øÀÇ ³ª»ç»ê(³ª»çÀÇ ¿Àµ¹µµµ¹ÇÑ ºÎºÐ)À» ¸Ó¸®·ÎºÎÅÍ 2.5¹Ì¸®¹ÌÅÍ ³²±â°í À߶󳽴Ù.(»çÁø73)
¿¡Æø½Ã·Î »þÇÁÆ®(±¼´ë, shaft,ÀÚ·ç)À§¿¡ ÇǴϿ±â¾î(pinion, ÀÛÀº Åé´Ï¹ÙÄû)¸¦ °íÁ¤ÇÑ´Ù. ¹Ý´ëÆòÀÇ ±¸¸ÛÀ» ÅëÇؼ º¸¸é¼ ±â¾îÅé´Ï°£°ÝÀ» ¸ÂÃç°¡¸é¼ ¸ðÅ͸¦ 2°³ÀÇ ³ª»ç¿·¿¡ F1À§¿¡ °áÇÕÇÑ´Ù. À¯´ÖÀ» ¼ÕÀ¸·Î µ¹·Áº¸¶ó. : »¶»¶ÇÑ °÷ÀÌ À־ ¾ÈµÈ´Ù. ³ª»ç¸¦ ²ËÁ¶ÀÌ°í ´Ï½º¸¦ ¹ß¶ó º¸È£ÇÑ´Ù.
Installation of the receiver
¸®½Ã¹ö ÀåÂøÇϱâ
Warning: the wiring of Cui-Cui in sum places is done by soldering the wire directly onto PCB without the uses of connectors. If you are not accustomed to this kind of practice and you do not have tools adapted and prefer to assemble with connectors. It is not a small difference in weight, which will prevent your Cui-Cui from flying. Do not forget that cross wires quickly arrived. Although the electronic material is reliable, it is not certain that it supports a swopping of polarity or any other ill treatment. The next photo will help you to position the various parts (photo74).
°æ°í : ¾î¶² ³ª¶ó¿¡¼ ¸¸µé¾îÁø ÄûÄûÀÇ ¹è¼±Àº Ä¿³ØÅ;øÀÌ PCBÀ§¿¡ Á÷Á¢ ³³¶«ÀÌ µÇ¾ú´Ù. ¸¸ÀÏ ´ç½ÅÀÌ ÀÌ°Í¿¡ Àͼ÷Ä¡ ¾Ê°í ³³¶«µµ±¸°¡ ¾ø´Ù¸é Ä¿³ØÅÍ·Î ¿¬°áÇϱ⸦ ¹Ù¶ö °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ÀÌ°ÍÀº ÄûÄûÀÇ ºñÇàÀ» ¹æÇØÇÒ ¸¸ÇÑ ¹«°ÔÂ÷À̵µ ¾Æ´Ï´Ù. Àü¼±À» Àß ¸ø ¿¬°áÇÏÁö ¾Êµµ·Ï Ç϶ó. ºñ·Ï ÀüÀÚºÎÇ°µéÀÌ ½Å·Ú¼ºÀÌ ÀÖÁö¸¸ ¾ç±Ø¼ºÀÇ ±³È¯ÀÌ µÇ´ÂÁö ºÒÈ®½ÇÇÏ°í ±âŸ ´Ù¸¥ ¿°·Áµµ ÀÖ´Ù. ´ÙÀ½ »çÁøÀº ´ç½ÅÀÌ ¿©·¯ºÎÇ°µéÀ» À§Ä¡½ÃÅ°´Â °ÍÀ» µµ¿ï °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø74)
Start by sticking the support for the servos on the back of the frame and fix the servos with double sided tape of good quality. The controls for the rudder is made out of piano wire 0,5mm folded in "S" shape at the ends.
¼º¸¸¦ À§ÇÑ ÁöÁö´ë¸¦ ÇÁ·¹ÀÓÀÇ µÚ¿¡ ºÎÂøÇÏ´Â °ÍºÎÅÍ ½ÃÀÛÇÑ´Ù. ¼º¸¸¦ ¾ç¸éÅ×ÀÌÇÁ·Î ºÙÀδÙ. ¹æÇâŸÀÇ Á¶Á¤Àº ³¡ÀÌ SÀÚÇüÀ¸·Î ±ÁÇôÁø 0.5¹Ì¸®ÀÇ ÇǾƳ뼱À¸·Î ¸¸µç´Ù.
Receiver JMP RX5 takes seat on a carbon plate about the middle of the frame. Also to fixed with double sided tape. Completely deploy the antenna towards the rear of Cui-Cui, glue it on the rod with adhesive. Stick the double sided tape on the speed controller and fit it on the back part of the gearbox.
JMP RX5 ¸®½Ã¹ö´Â ÇÁ·¹ÀÓÀÇ Áß¾ÓÂë¿¡ ÀÖ´Â Ä«º»ÆÇÀ§ÀÇ ÀÚ¸®¸¦ Â÷ÁöÇÑ´Ù. ¾ç¸éÅ×ÀÌÇÁ·Î °íÁ¤ÇÑ´Ù. ¾ÈÅ׳ª¸¦ ÄûÄûÀÇ µÞºÎºÐÀ» µû¶ó¼ ¿ÏÀüÇÏ°Ô ¹èÄ¡½ÃŲ´Ù. Á¢ÂøÁ¦·Î ºÀ¿¡ ºÙÀδÙ. ½ºÇǵåÄÜÆ®·Ñ·¯À§¿¡ ¾ç¸éÅ×ÀÌÇÁ¸¦ ºÙÀÌ°í ±â¾î¹Ú½ºÀÇ µÞºÎºÐ¿¡ °íÁ¤ÇÑ´Ù.
Solder the wires of the motor directly to the speed controller. The connection to feed power could be fastened with the BEC connector or if you are like me, use pins of IC socket and covered with thermal sheath. The photo will show you something, more than words(photo 75).
¸ðÅÍÀÇ Àü¼±À» ½ºÇǵåÄÜÆ®·Ñ·¯¿¡ Á÷Á¢ ³³¶«ÇÑ´Ù. Àü·ù¸¦ °ø±ÞÇÒ ¿¬°áÀº BEC ÄÁ³ØÅÍ·Î È®°íÈ÷ ÇÒ¼öÀÖ´Ù. ¶Ç´Â ´ç½ÅÀÌ ³ª¸¦ ÁÁ¾ÆÇÑ´Ù¸é ³»¿¼º ¿ÜÇǸ¦ ÀÔÈù IC¼ÒÄÏÀÇ ÇÉÀ» »ç¿ëÇ϶ó. »çÁøÀÌ ´ç½Å¿¡°Ô ¸»ÀÌ»óÀÇ °ÍÀ» º¸¿©ÁÙ °ÍÀÌ´Ù.(»çÁø75)
Those of you which chose to solder the wires directly onto the receiver, it is them permanent the moment you do it.
´ç½ÅÁß¿¡ Àü¼±À» ¸®½Ã¹öÀ§¿¡ ³³¶«Çϱ⸦ ¼±ÅÃÇÑ »ç¶÷µéÀº, ±×°ÍÀ» ÇÏ´Â ¼ø°£ ¿µ±¸ÀûÀ¸·Î °íÁ¤µÈ´Ù.
For the others, connect simply by the connectors. It remains to position the plate that carries the battery you will not stick immediately because the weight of the battery it will be used for to us to position the Centre of gravity.
´Ù¸¥ »ç¶÷µéÀº ´ÜÁö Ä¿³ØÅ͸¦ ÀÌ¿ëÇÏ¿© ¿¬°áÇÑ´Ù. ±×°ÍÀº ¹èÅ͸®¸¦ ºÎÂøÇÏ´Â ÆÇÀÇ À§Ä¡¿¡ ³²´Â´Ù. ¹èÅ͸®´Â Áö±Ý ºÎÂøÇÏÁö´Â ¾Ê´Âµ¥ ¹èÅ͸®ÀÇ ¹«°Ô´Â ¹«°ÔÁß½ÉÀÇ À§Ä¡¸¦ Àâ´Âµ¥ »ç¿ëÇÒ °ÍÀ̱⠶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù.
Centring
The centre of gravity is located at 58mm off the leading edge, the bird having the wings level. Support the machine on the section of a cutter to adjust the CG perfectly and glue the plate that holds the batteries in places (photo 76).
The batteries are taped on the plate with adhesive tape.
<¹«°ÔÁß½ÉÀâ±â>
¹«°ÔÁß½ÉÀº ³¯°³¾Õ¼±¿¡¼ 58¹Ì¸®¹ÌÅÍ µÚ¿¡ À§Ä¡ÇÑ´Ù.¹«°ÔÁß½ÉÀ» ¿Ïº®ÇÏ°Ô Á¶Á¤ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖµµ·Ï Ä«ÅÍÄ®À§ÀÇ ±â°è¸¦ ÁöÅÊÇÑ ÈÄ ¹èÅ͸®¸¦ ºÙÀÌ´Â ÆÇÀ» Á¦À§Ä¡¿¡ ºÙÀδÙ.(»çÁø76)
Clearances
They are about + - 10mm on the two rudder. The 1"Flight No panic! All well will occur! Choose one day without wind. Slightly hold the bird with the nose to up (photo77).
2°³ÀÇ ¹æÇ⟿¡´Â +-10¹Ì¸®¹ÌÅÍÀÇ ¿ÀÂ÷°¡ ÀÖ´Ù. 1ÀÎÄ¡ ºñÇàÂ÷ÀÌ¿¡ °ú¹Î¹ÝÀÀÇÏÁö¸¶¶ó! ¹Ù¶÷ºÒÁö ¾Ê´Â ³¯À» ÅÃÇ϶ó. »õ¸¦ °¡º±°ÔÀâ°í ÄÚ¸¦ »ó¹æÇâÀ¸·Î µç´Ù.(»çÁø77)
Check that the controls function and that they are not reversed. Gradually push the handle to accelerate until maximum then, with light pushed, release the bird in its element. Allow it to have time to climb a few meters, retard the throttle gradually and quietly fly in order to familiarize yourself with the bird. Á¶Á¤±â´ÉÀ» üũÇÏ°í ¹Ý´ë·Î µÇ¾îÀÖ´ÂÁö È®ÀÎÇÑ´Ù. ÃÖ´ë¼Ó·ÂÀÌ µÉ¶§±îÁö Á¡Â÷·Î °¡¼Ó½ÃÅ°°í, °¡º±°Ô ¹Ð¾î¼ »õ¸¦ ³¯¸°´Ù. ¼ö ¹ÌÅ͸¦ ¿Ã¶ó°¥ ½Ã°£À» ±â´Ù·ÁÁØÈÄ Á¡Â÷ °¨¼ÓÇÏ¿© ´ç½ÅÀÌ »õ¿¡ Àͼ÷ÇØÁú¼ö ÀÖµµ·Ï Á¶¿ëÈ÷ ºñÇàÇÏ°Ô ÇÑ´Ù.
With the experiment, you will be able to fix the wings in flight while playing with the throttle control and to plane very small little, although the smoothness of Cui-Cui is not that of a glider. ½Ç½À°ú ÇÔ²² ´ç½ÅÀº ¼ÓµµÁ¶Á¤À» ÅëÇÏ¿© ºñÇàÁß¿¡ ³¯°³¸¦ °íÁ¤ÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖÀ» °ÍÀÌ´Ù. ºñ·Ï ±Û¶óÀÌ´õó·³Àº ºÎµå·´Áö ¾Ê´Ùµµ ¾ÆÁÖ Á¶±Ý È°°øÇÒ ¼ö ÀÖÀ» °ÍÀÌ´Ù.
Be wary if you fix the wings in opposite position of dihedron because it will make a half-roll and will turn on its back. For the landing, nothing simpler: retard throttle and let the ornithopter go down. As soon as it is sufficiently low, cut the motor.
³¯°³¸¦ 2¸é°¢( dihedron)ÀÇ ¹Ý´ëÃëÄ¡¿¡ °íÁ¤ÇÏÁö ¾Êµµ·Ï Á¶½ÉÇ϶ó. ¿Ö³ÄÇÏ¸é ±×°ÍÀº ¹ÝÂë ±¸¸£°í µÚ°Ô ¸¸µé±â ¶§¹®ÀÌ´Ù.
Âø·úÀº °¨¼ÓÇÏ¿© ¿À³Ê»ðÅÍ°¡ °¡¶ó¾É°Ô ÇÑ´Ù. ÃæºÐÈ÷ ³·¾ÆÁöÀÚ¸¶ÀÚ ¸ðÅ͸¦ ²ö´Ù.
Conclusion
I hope that you will make a success of your Cui-Cui without problem and that you will be numerous to practise the flapping wing flight. Perhaps that meetings will be born, I intend already certain Pierre Weck to make comments of the kind "it is by a short final on the 145 that the F-QIQI (fox cuicui) is posed" but this is another history (ndir. the most luminous ideas often start with an insane idea...). If you have questions, suggestions, photographs of your achievements, do not hesitate to contact me over: Cuicuiorni@wanadoo.Fr
Professor Poupette and myself (pho. 78)
you let us wish good beaten flights!
<°á·Ð>
³ª´Â ´ç½ÅÀÌ ÄûÄû¸¦ ¹®Á¦Á¡¾øÀÌ ¼º°øÀûÀ¸·Î ¸¸µé±â¸¦ Èñ¸ÁÇÑ´Ù. ¶ÇÇÑ ³¯°³ÁþºñÇàÀ» ¼öµµ ¾øÀÌ ½ÃÇàÇϱ⸦ Èñ¸ÁÇÑ´Ù. (Áß°£»ý·«) Áú¹®, Á¦¾È, ¿Ï¼ºÇ°»çÁøÀÌ ÀÖ´Ù¸é ÁÖÀú¾øÀÌ ¿¬¶ôÇ϶ó. cuicuiorni@wanadoo.fr
Sites to be visited
http://www.cybird-shop.com
www.nesail.com/Ornithopter/parkhawk.htm
http://ovirc.free.fr/indexfree.htm
www.chez.com/truefly
Some addresses to get the material
TopModel
The garden of company of the Sologne BP3 41300 the Saddle St Denis 02
54 94 01 01 www.topmodel.fr
Wes Technik Kiosterstr, 12 D-72644 Oberboihingen Germany http://www.wes-technik.de/
JMP Solutions 23 street Herold 93340 Raincy © 01 43 81 02 70
jpiednoir@club-internet.fr
The Octant
17 street of Spring LP 21005 F-67451 Mundolsheim Cedex
?? 03 88 20 55 57
(ndir. The video of the flight of the CUI-CUI will be very quickly visible
on loopingrcm.free.Fr When it was said to you that this realization of Jean-Claude Pesce is quite simply bluffante!)
TopModel
Le jardin d'entreprise de Sologne BP3 41300 La Selle St Denis 02 54 94 01 01 www.topmodel.fr
Wes Technik Kiosterstr, 12 D-72644
Oberboihingen Germany
http://www.wes-technik.de/
JMP Solutions 23 rue Herold
93340 Le Raincy © 01 43 81 02 70
jpiednoir@club-internet.fr
L'Octant
17 rue du Printemps
BP 21005
F-67451 Mundolsheim Cedex
?? 03 88 20 55 57
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±Ç¼øÀÏ - 2005/11/04 14:10:01 (68.5) ÀÚ |
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